Our annual survey of seafood in Southeast Louisiana this year counts down the 33 best seafood species enjoyed in our restaurants, seafood markets, and homes. For the full survey so far, click here. Or use the links at the bottom to move up and down the list.
#33: Grouper
The groupers are more popular in Florida than in Louisiana. But groupers are commonly caught in Gulf waters, and show up ever more frequently on local menus. Groupers come in a number of species, some better than others. The best of them is Warsaw grouper, a large (as much as forty pounds) fish with enormous flakes. I've seen individual flakes of it served, interleaved with other seafood or vegetables for a handsome effect. Yellowfin grouper--a smaller fish--is more likely to be the one offered as the fish of the day on New Orleans menus.
The color of cooked grouper is very white. That has a lot of appeal to most diners, which is one reason chefs like it. As does another characteristic of the fish--its mild flavor. A little too mild for my tastes, in fact. Whenever grouper comes my way I always marinate it a few minutes in olive oil, give it a good crusting of Creole seasoning, and either grill or broil it. More polite methods of preparation will result in the very subtly-flavored fish preferred by those who say they don't like their fish to taste "fishy." (What a thing to be thought of as undesirable!)
Horseradish-Crusted Grouper
With Oysters and Saffron
This dish is the creation of Commander's Palace's 1990s chef Jamie Shannon. He died tragically young but left behind many warm memories. It utilizes the big-flaked, tender Gulf grouper fish with a unique crusty topping with horseradish. The sauce is made with the most expensive ingredient in the world, saffron (don't worry--a little bit goes a long way) and fresh oysters.
- Crust:
- 1 stick butter
- 3 cups bread crumbs
- 3 Tbs. fresh horseradish, finely grated
- 1 bunch flat-leaf parsley, leaves only, chopped
- 2 Tbs. Creole seasoning
- 4 grouper fillets, 8-10 oz. each
- Sauce:
- 1 pint whipping cream
- 1 Tbs. butter
- 1 Tbs. chopped onions
- 1/4 tsp. chopped fresh garlic
- 1/4 tsp. saffron (about 10 threads)
- 1/2 tsp. salt
- 1/2 tsp. white pepper
- 1 doz. fresh large oysters
Preheat the oven to 400 degrees.
1. Melt the butter and blend it with the other crust ingredients until it almost but not quite sticks together. Divide this into four portions, and cover the top of each grouper fillet with a layer of the crust.
2. Place the encrusted fish fillets in a large skillet or baking pan, lightly oiled with olive oil. Bake the fish in a preheated 400- degree oven for 10-14 minutes.
3. Meanwhile, make the sauce. Reduce the cream by one third in a saucepan. In a skillet, heat the butter over medium heat and in it sauté the onions, shallots, and garlic until translucent.
4. Add the reduced cream to the skillet and bring to a boil. Strain the contents of the skillet back into the saucepan and add the saffron, salt, pepper, and oysters. Cook until edges of the oysters begin to curl.
5. Place the fish on serving plates and surround with three oysters per person. Pour the sauce onto the plate, around (but not over) the fish.
Serves four.
