Written by Tom Fitzmorris February 02, 2018 16:45 in

DiningDiarySquare-150x150 Tuesday, January 30, 2018. The busy last two days have me running around catching up. I have columns to write for New Orleans CityBusiness, Inside New Orleans, and the daily pile of news for my own New Orleans Menu subscribers. Meanwhile, the Marys have changed their minds again and made another bid for the house they've been interested in buying. The sellers have countered the bids a few times. I am keeping my distance from this bargaining, even though I know I'll be pulled into it at some point. The restaurant development of the day is that Chef Duke Locicero, who left his French Quarter restaurant at the end of the year, has turned up at N'Tini's in Mandeville. I heard this rumor about a week ago, but couldn't confirm it. I am still unable to get Duke on the phone so we can get details. All I know just yet is that the kitchen will deal in Duke's own New World Italian flavors. Given that N'Tini's has been more or less afloat and directionless in the last few months, it could only be an improvement. Duke has excited our palates for a long time, and I have no reason to think that the momentum will continue. Wednesday, February 31, 2018. Retake of WYES Dinner @ The Pelican Club. We are visited on the radio by Jacques Leonardi, the owner, conceptualist, and K-Paul's alumnus of Jacques Imo's on Oak Street. Jacques-Imo's made a big splash in the early 1990s, particularly among younger diners, who liked the funky-authentic, convincingly Cajun and soul-food, and usually delicious eating. Jack was ready to talk in his mellow tones for the whole hour on the air, and even another hour if I wanted him to stay. This is the first time I've had him on the air in years. In fact, I'm not sure that this wasn't the first time. However long he would be there, it was worthwhile. Jack knows all about the food and the neighborhood, and has a fascinating personal history. He ought to write a book. A wine dinner was supposed to have gone off about a month ago at the Pelican Club. It was postponed because of two days' worth of terrible weather. But here it is tonight. Channel 12--the public television station hereabouts--started planning these Season of Good Tastes dinners a year or so before my New Orleans Eat Club commenced its events. It was a lot like the Eat Club, or the Eat Club was a lot like it--except that all the proceeds go to WYES, while the money from the Eat Club events is taken entirely by the restaurants. Mary Ann wants to attend any dinner put on by the Pelican Club. So do I. Every time we go there, Chef Richard Hughes shows off even more deftness and generosity than the time before. This dinner particularly shines in the wine department, which brought from the cellar some particularly wonderful reds. First, though, was an original gin cocktail that sent an electric shock down my spine (that's what it felt like, anyway). Then came a dark and mellow Chateauneuf du Pape. We shifted to a Sancerre followed by Au Contrerie Chardonnay from the Russian River Valley (with a lobster ravioli, of all things), then a really fine (everybody near me loved it Cabernet Sauvignon from Napa. The nicest surprise of the night was the dessert wine: Late-Bottled Warre's 2004 Vintage Port. I haven't had a port in years, but this was the perfect cool day for it. And once again, Richard and his Pelicans give forth much more than they says they're giving. And has a better wine list than most. One more thing, from my egomaniac department: A woman at the dinner said she heard I was a singer, and wanted to me sing something to prove it's true. I have the perfect song for moments like this: "You Stepped Out Of A Dream." The woman was convinced, and a guy standing next to me said that he had vocally performed in theaters around the country, and that he found my efforts credible. What a way to end an evening! Too bad Mary Ann left early. (Or too lucky, the way she looks at my need to sing in public. All the above were the makings of a great meal, and we haven't even touched on the food. Best courses: seafood martini, lobster Ravioli, filet mignon marchand de vin, a gumbo of shrimp, duck, and andouille. Profiteroles for dessert. Pelican Club. French Quarter: 615 Bienville. 504-523-1504.