A Fine Dinner At The Flaming Torch.

[title type="h6"]Friday, September 6, 2013.[/title] That the Flaming Torch remains consistent in the face of a history of frequent chef changes may prove something disturbing. Could it be that as long as the chef of a going restaurant is basically competent, it doesn't matter who does the job? This would not apply to the restaurants where the whole game is about inventing a new dish every fifteen minutes. Or where the chef is a bona-fide celebrity, whose every move begins with confidence on the part of his diners that it will all be wonderful by definition. I think there's been a chef change again at the Torch. Tonight, that was compounded by the absence for health reasons of the new chef, who had been replaced for the night by Hassan Kahleigi, the owner. I have never known Hassan to work on the line, but I'm sure it has happened. All restaurant owners wind up at some time or other performing every job in the house. I didn't discover that Hassan was cooking until I was on my way out. I had assumed he was away for the night. I was surprised when I found him cooking, because if anything all the food I had tonight was better than usual. He ought to hire himself. I started with an amuse bouche I immediately forgot. Have you noticed how often that's happening? Is it because we are harder to please? Or because the amuses are getting less amusing? [caption id="attachment_39618" align="alignnone" width="480"] Mussels, topped with shoestring fries.[/caption] The first real course was a pile of mussels with the creamy sauce for which the Flaming Torch has become known. I have in the past eaten two orders of these things. That's how good they are. I managed to hold myself to one tonight. [caption id="attachment_39619" align="alignnone" width="480"] Pompano with sauce Maltaise.[/caption] After a house salad, the fish of the day emerged. It was pompano: a nice big fillet thereof, seared very lightly (it may have been broiled). Sauce Maltaise covered it. That's more or less a hollandaise made with orange juice instead of lemon juice. I've made it at home for years, but it's only lately I discovered it's a classic French sauce. Fingerling potatoes sizzled in butter and grilled halves of brussels sprouts acted as the backstop. Everything about this was good. If I had to complain, I'd say the fish would have been better if cooked with a little more intense heat. But I don't have to complain, do I? For dessert, just a couple of small spheres of house-made vanilla ice cream. Where do they put the machinery for that undertaking? The kitchen is not what you could call large. Add this to the list of restaurants with teeny kitchens whose food is nevertheless excellent. Flaming Torch. Uptown: 737 Octavia. 504-895-0900.

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