The Christmas Reveillon tradition hearkens back well over a century to the mid-19th, when people of faith went to midnight mass and celebrated with a lavish meal until the wee hours of the morning. Somewhere in the late 20th or early 21st century, this charming custom was discovered again and revived by many of the restaurants of New Orleans, who crafted a much smaller version of the traditional feast, and an old/new culinary tradition was born. The gourmet version.
The Eat Club, (Tom’s brilliant and much-emulated idea of gathering strangers to eat great meals), embraced the Reveillon, and that tradition became the Food Show’s Christmas tradition.
Enthusiasm has cooled on the Reveillon dinners, and there are less of them than in their heyday, but these menus are no less interesting, affordable, and eclectic. We picked out a few that you might like, in no particular order.
Arnaud’s has a four course menu for $60, and it has more choices than many of the others we saw. The appetizer is really an amuse bouche, and it is classic: Daube Glace.
Crawfish cake and mirliton salad keep it local in the second course, and Veal Loin and Roasted Cornish Game Hen are some stars of the entrees. Desserts are classic Christmas: Peppermint Pie and Eggnog Cheesecake.
Broussard’s doesn’t generate much buzz, which is a pity because it is a gorgeous Grande Dame, (celebrating a centennial in 2021 from its COVID-interrupted anniversary last year), and the food is always delicious. It’s $54 four course menu includes turtle soup as a classic beginner, and ends a little wilder, with Moroccan-Spiced Satsuma cake. In between are a fried quail appetizer and crispy smoked duck leg entree, and other choices like fish en papillote.
Commander’s Palace takes the prize for the most exotic menu, featuring Texas Antelope as the sole entree and Figgy Pudding for dessert. This five course menu is $85, but they also have a four course for $52, with lacquered quail as the sole entree.
Criollo’s $45 for four course menu is on the financial lighter side, but it doesn’t skimp on creativity. Duck and rabbit terrine, Cornish Game Hen, and Hazelnut-crusted Triggerfish are some of the choices featured on the first two courses, with a single Buche de Noel dessert.
Court Of Two Sisters may have the most New Orleans offerings on their $50 four course menu, with choices like turtle soup and Trout Amandine and Chicken Bon Femme, as well as Bananas Foster for dessert.
Newcomer Miss River in the new Four Seasons Hotel tops the pricey list, offering five courses for $95, but there is more bang for your buck. The Deviled eggs first course includes crab and caviar, and they’ll flame the sherry for your turtle soup. Sugarcane-Lacquered Duck or Redfish Courtbouillon are the two entrees, each accompanied by creamed spinach and oyster stuffing. A Pumpkin Bourbon Trifle with Toasted Pecans is the sole dessert.
The $62 four course menu at Muriel’s, keeps it local mostly, with a little spin. There is Gumbo Ya-Ya and Fried Oyster Chowder, Satsuma salad, and Blackened Pompano with Shrimp Etouffee and Popcorn Rice, to name some favorites.
Richard Hughes at The Pelican Club always does these special menus the best, we think. They aren’t special at all. They are always his delicious regular menu for the basic “special” price, with an upcharge for more expensive items. Your choices are not limited. His menu is hardly classic Louisiana, but an exciting twist on local favorites. Yes, there is turtle soup, but also a vegan carrot coconut and ginger soup, and an oyster mirliton soup. And there is BBQ shrimp as well as baked oysters, but also Mississippi quail with foie gras. Gulf fish with crabmeat is drizzled with Jalapeno Hollandaise, and a Louisiana Cioppino is offered alongside a whole crispy fried fish with Asian glaze. Lots of choices, limited only by your hunger, imagination, and wallet. Five courses, starting at $56.
John Folse’s $85 six course menu at R’evolution is heavier on the gourmet and less local classic. With lobster bisque and Texas Wild Boar alongside Louisiana Snapping turtle soup, frogs legs and veal cheeks beside boudin-stuffed quail, John Folse displays his polished and sophisticated twist on both familiar and unfamiliar ingredients.
Tom Wolfe goes global with his Reveillon at the Rib Room.
An interesting and somewhat large menu includes ingredients like chorizo and lamb belly and candied pepitas as well as andouille, gulf fish, and short ribs. Dishes like Cassoulet and Paella, and a Black Forest tart. Really creative, and worth a look.$60 for four courses.
And even though the Antoine’s menu doesn’t especially stand out, Christmas isn’t Christmas to us without a visit there.
This is only a sampling of the menus available this year, and all of these restaurants have certain days this is offered. Click here for the full list of offerings and details.
