  |
                      |
Baie Rouge
Uptown 2: Washington To Napoleon: 4128 Magazine. 504-304-3667. Map.
Casual.
AE DS MC V
Website
ANECDOTES AND ANALYSIS
It's a mixed blessing when a restaurant doesn't take itself too seriously. It sometimes gives permission for goofiness or corner-cutting, neither of which are appealing for long. From its name and logo to the peak moments of its kitchen, Baie Rouge comes across as playful. Yet it turns out food two or three times better than do some sober houses of chef worship I can think of. Its not for everybody--you have to be ready for unexpected variations in dishes you thought you knew well. But even that is fun.
[caption id="attachment_38457" align="alignnone" width="480"]
Baie Rouge dining room and bar.[/caption]
WHY IT'S NOTEWORTHY The many new openings on Magazine Street in the past year include this unexpectedly excellent, inexpensive French-and-Spanish bistro. It looks like a neighborhood cafe, and that's probably the right category for what they do at lunchtime: salads, light entrees, and a burger. In the evening, the chef gets ambitious and creative, with a sure sense of taste.
WHAT'S GOOD Just about everything is unique, yet not so singular as to be offputting. The best example of this is the thick pork chop, brined overnight so it stays juicy, topped with a deep brown sauce including cocoa, coffee, and chile peppers. It comes out tasting like a Mexican molé dish, with a scattering of corn and green onions completing the effect. Everything else has a similar curve.
[caption id="attachment_42955" align="alignnone" width="480"]
Pommes frites aux aioli.[/caption]
BACKSTORY
The name is pronounced "bay" and then as in "Baton Rouge." It refers to a beach-lined spot on the shore of French St. Martin in the Caribbean. It's where co-owner Kimble Donington-Smith went with his wife on their honeymoon. Kimble is well-known in the neighborhood after fifteen years of tending bar. Chef and co-owner Mike Capiton has a classic local resume, spending time at Galatoire's, Mat & Naddie's, Ralph's on the Park and (most recently) Eleven 79. Baie Rouge opened in April of last year.
[caption id="attachment_42958" align="alignnone" width="480"]
Pork chop with kinda-sorta mole sauce.[/caption]
DINING ROOM
The purple-and-turquoise exterior establishes a colorful design that may be a little gaudy, but the mixed-lot quality of the furnishings adds an intentional looseness. The semi-open kitchen is deep in the back, leaving a roomy front room and bar. The service staff is conversant with the menu's twists.
ESSENTIAL DISHES
Starters
»Hand-cut fries, brie fondue
Fried oyster mushrooms, white remoulade sauce
»Mussels mariniere
Bacon beignets
Pork rillettes, raisin compote
Soup du jour
Baby arugula salad
Watercress and goat cheese salad, strawberries, almonds
~
Entrees
Shrimp and risotto milanese
»»Cocoa, coffee and chili braised pork chop, roasted corn relish
»Seafood and chorizo estofado stew
Baie burger
Lundi burger (veggie, with red beans)
»Pan roasted chicken, tomato jus
Ribeye steak and fries, garlic aioli
»Seared duck breast, carrots, roasted beets, turnips, lima beans
»Gulf fish du jour
~
Dessert
»Ginger crème brûlée, fresh fruit
»Flourless chocolate truffle cake, mint syrup and vanilla cream
Dessert du jour
FOR BEST RESULTS
A meal of the neighborhood-cafe stuff isn't bad, you're missing something if you don't try the more imaginative food. It's anything but contrived, a welcome condition these days.
OPPORTUNITIES FOR IMPROVEMENT
The little tumblers for wine service are authentic to the part of the world that inspires this place. But, okay, statement made. Now let's have some stemware.
FACTORS OTHER THAN FOOD
Up to three points, positive or negative, for these characteristics. Absence of points denotes average performance in the matter.
- Dining Environment +1
- Consistency +1
- Service+1
- Value +2
- Attitude +2
- Wine & Bar +1
- Hipness +2
- Local Color +2
SPECIAL ATTRIBUTES
- Romantic
- Open Sunday lunch
- Open Monday lunch
- Reservations accepted
