Bouillabaisse @ R'Evolution
Bouillabaisse waxes and wanes in the kitchens of New Orleans's restaurant. After an efflorescence of the dish in the early 2000s, it has once again faded from view, with less than a handful of chefs bothering to serve it. But any description of the dish makes one wonder why it isn't wildly popular here. It starts with a seafood brother, into which are added shrimp, crab, mussels, lobster, oysters, and miscellaneous local fish. In its hometown of Marseilles, trash fish are all but required in the recipe. In New Orleans, much better seafoods show up. At this moment, the rendition at R'Evolution by Chefs John Folse and Rick Tramanto is the lustiest and most delicious, with a big flavor. One wants only for a bit more of it. And some better, crustier bread. But beggars can't be choosers, and in these days those of us who are fans of the dish (I'm crazy about it) have slim pickings.
