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Brothers
Harvey: 1502 Lapalco Blvd. 504-366-1073. Map. WHY IT'S NOTEWORTHY
The problem with the suburbs is that they don't have neighborhoods the way the city does. Nobody walks anywhere. So not many neighborhood restaurants get off the ground. This one did. It's been a popular eatery almost since the day Lapalco Boulevard was opened to traffic. It's been around long enough to have become legendary among West Bankers. The menu is pure New Orleans everyday eating: poor boy sandwiches, fried seafood platters, red beans on Monday, gumbo, bread pudding. And breakfast.
WHAT'S GOOD They've cooked everything the same way for so long here that there's no danger of creeping Syscoism. The roast beef for the poor boys, beans for the daily specials, olive salad for the muffulettas and everything else is made on site. The recipes work. The roast beef sandwich is exceptional. Tied for second place are the specials (great red beans) and the soups. The seafood is a bit more variable, but still worth getting. The breakfast is reasonably decent, but not a major specialty.
BACKSTORY
The place opened in 1975, but the Abadie brothers made it what it is when they bought it in 1980. Their menu includes a litany of all the great New Orleans neighborhood restaurants whose example the Abadies try to follow.
DINING ROOM DOZEN BEST DISHES, DESCRIBED FOR BEST RESULTS OPPORTUNITIES FOR IMPROVEMENT FACTORS OTHER THAN FOOD
Up to three points, positive or negative, for these characteristics. Absence of points denotes average performance in the matter.
Casual.
AE DS MC V
The somewhat run-down strip-mall-style exterior might dissuade first-timers, but the dining room is actually more pleasant than most restaurants like this.
Seafood okra gumbo.
»Chicken-andouille gumbo.
»Oyster-artichoke soup.
Poor boy sandwiches:
»Roast beef.
Ham.
Hamburger.
Smoked or hot sausage.
Barbecue beef.
»Fried oyster, shrimp, or catfish.
Grilled cheese sandwich.
»Muffuletta.
Daily specials:
»Red beans (Monday).
Hamburger steak (Wednesday).
White beans (Thursday).
»Fried seafood platters.
Bread pudding.
Basic breakfasts.
»Pancakes.
Omelettes.
For an additional three or four dollars, a poor boy comes with a small cup of gumbo and fries. The red or white beans can be had with fried catfish, a better combination than it sounds.
If they would routinely heat the bread for the poor boys but not for the muffulettas, both would be even better.
SPECIAL ATTRIBUTES
- Good for business meetings
- 8-25
- Open Monday lunch and dinner
- Dinner ends early (8 p.m.)
- Open all afternoon
- Unusually large servings
- Quick, good meal
- Good for children
- Easy, nearby parking
- No reservations
