Brown Butter. Mid-City: 231 N Carrollton Ave. 504-609-3871.
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Brown Butter
Mid-City: 231 N Carrollton Ave. 504-609-3871. Map.
Casual.
AE DC DS MC V
Website
ANECDOTES AND ANALYSIS When the Katrina flood waters in Mid-City began to lapse, what was left behind was a pity. Here was a part of the city where the food scene had been in the throes of more growing and diversifying than most other parts of town. Now it was all shut down. But not for long. Not only did most of the prior restaurants come back quickly, but many entirely new restaurants had opened. By the end of the next year the Mid-City dining strip had returned, better than it had been before. Brown Butter was not yet part of this revival, but when it opened a couple of years ago it filled a niche. It wouldn't seem like Mid-City unless a restaurant there were a bit offbeat. Everything we notice when we open the menu or converse with a waiter is that almost everything here defies category. This begins with the name. Just the thought of brown butter brings to mind sauteed fish dashed with the namesake Brown Butter. But no such dish can be found on the menu here. Surprise! On the other hand, the official name of the place appends the words "Southern Kitchen." New Orleans people rarely understand what that means, although most of us have learned that Creole and Cajun flavor cannot be expected. Beyond that, Orleanians don't have an especially good idea of what Southern food is. Southern restaurants have not for the most part done well here. (A recent example of this is the closure of Purloo, the original restaurant at the Southern Food and Beverage Museum. It went nowhere.
WHY IT'S NOTEWORTHY The first time I dined at Brown Butter, it was cold outside. So I asked what the soups du jour might be. I learned that soup here is served at lunch, but not at dinner. (Although that rule wasn't in force the next time I showed up. That menu did indeed have a soup, and a good one, too.)
WHAT'S GOOD The first time I dined at Brown Butter, it was cold outside. So I asked what the soups du jour might be. I learned that soup here is served at lunch, but not at dinner. (Although that rule wasn't in force the next time I showed up. That menu did indeed have a soup, and a good one, too.) That might be just as well. The great appetizer--for the very attractive price of $15--a big bowl of white-wine-steamed mussels with fresh, hand-cut fries, and chorizo--an unlikely-sounding combination, but a great one. Also in this course is a $12 serving of chicken-liver pate topped with a citrus-topping. The last attraction in this course is the oak-smoked fish dip. All the above smacks of gourmet, but the menu shift from that point into a wealth of salads and sandwiches. Some of these are exotic enough to attract attention, but most of it falls short. Yes, even the bahn-mi boudin, invoking the appeal of Vietnamese poor boys. And then we get some appetite-busting-size entrees. The best of these by far is the panneed pork chop. It's the size of those big, sometimes double-bone chops you see in the gourmet bistros. Instead of being grilled, these are coated thickly with the traditional coating of well-seasoned bread crumbs. I did my best to consume it all, but I'd need to call in a twenty-something associate to put it away.
BACKSTORY
DINING ROOM
The premises are split into two parcels: a spacious dining room with many booths, and a bar that verges on the kitchen. The service staff is both agreeable and full of ideas. That's helpful, given that the identities of most of the dishes are not always obvious. Occasionally, the servers are a bit hard to find.
REVIEWER'S NOTEPAD
Dozen Best Dishes Starters Mussels & fries Oak smoked fish dip Black-eye-pea hummus Smoked chicken wings Entrees Panneed pork chop Seoul burger (Korean-style sauce) Boudin Banh Mi Brisket plate Braised beef short ribs Smoked chicken half, Mexican street corn salad Creme brulee Flourless chocolate torte FOR BEST RESULTS
OPPORTUNITIES FOR IMPROVEMENT
FACTORS OTHER THAN FOOD
Up to three points, positive or negative, for these characteristics. Absence of points denotes average performance in the matter.
- Dining Environment
- Consistency
- Service+2
- Value +2
- Attitude +2
- Wine & Bar
- Hipness +1
- Local Color +1
SPECIAL ATTRIBUTES
- Open Monday dinner
- Easy, nearby parking
- Reservations accepted
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