Any conversation about a culinary kind of cooling off in New Orleans must first begin with Angelo Brocato’s, serving the community since 1905. Family patriarch Angelo Brocato learned his craft in one of the ornate pasticcerias of his hometown of Palermo, Sicily. Starting an apprenticeship at 12, he learned the techniques for making gelatos and granitas in the summer months, and in the cooler months he learned the art of baking Italian cookies and pastries and cannolis.
When he emigrated to this country and settled in New Orleans, he set up shop in the French Quarter on Ursulines Street. This ornate sweet shop was a welcome addition to the neighborhood. It was here that New Orleans became acquainted with Brocato’s famous lemon ice, well known in his home country as granita al limone. With 98 degree temps like we have now, this must have seemed heavenly. He also introduced the city to his vanilla, cinnamon, and ground almond gelato called torroncino, a perennial local favorite. And of course there is the cannoli, and Tom's personal favorite, spumoni.
After WW2 the French Quarter population began to move to the suburbs, and the second generation Brocato’s seized on the widespread use of the freezer to bring their products to restaurants, grocers and homes, making their delicious treats available all over. For every spumoni Tom has had at the Carrollton Avenue store, there are twenty others he has had elsewhere. Good thing, too, the lines are already too long at the store. Generations of New Orleanians have always, and continue to, want to immerse themselves in the Old World vibe at the Mid-City location. And of course, to cool off with these Italian treats exactly like the ones being served to their counterparts across the ocean in Palermo, Sicily.
Just as iconic, but not as old, Hansen’s Sno-Bliz has itself quite a line out the door on Tchoupitoulas. Like Brocato’s, which moved to its current location in the early Eighties, this is not the original location of Hansen’s. They started in 1939 outside owner Mary’s mother’s house. After a few years on Valmont street, they moved to Tchoupitoulas.
Hansen’s Sno-Bliz is as much a love story as one about snowballs. Ernest called their love affair Romeo and Juliet, though there was no tragedy- just hard work, prosperity, and love.Ernest and Mary Hansen were always at each other’s side until she died right after Katrina at 95, and he a few months later at 94.
The original Sno-Bliz machine was patented by Ernest, but it was Mary who was the boss of the business. Ernest was a machinist by trade, and he envisioned a machine that would be cleaner than hand-shaved ice. Cleanliness was paramount to the Hansen’s. Each morning before daylight, the Hansen’s, till the end, went into the shop on Tchoupitoulas and cleaned the ice, and every spot of the back of the shop, and Mary remade all the syrups. Every single day. Old syrup thrown out, new syrup made. Their motto was “There are no shortcuts to quality,” Every snowball had a layer of powder, ice, and syrup, re-layered over and over to get that more-powder-than-ice quality unique to Hansen’s. And people came. And waited in line. No matter how long or how hot. Often by the time you got a snowball you had made new friends.
During all this work the Hansen’s raised two sons, but neither would take over the business. One is a doctor and the other a judge. The proprietorship of this legendary operation skipped a generation and was entrusted to son Gerry’s daughter Ashley, who runs it now to the exacting standards of her beloved grandmother.
The Creole Creamery, newcomers to this cool scene, offer a more contemporary but no less iconic option for cooling down N’Awlins style. Owner David Bergeron and “chef” Bryan Gilmore worked together through high school and college at the Swensen’s Ice Cream Parlor on Severn in Metairie. David called Bryan back in 2004 after the last Swensen’s closed locally and told Bryan that he was buying some equipment from their old boss and starting an ice cream parlor in the old McKenzie’s Bakery location on Prytania Street. It was in pretty bad shape, but David liked the location and the nostalgic local association. The storefront of the building, which is a registered landmark with “cultural icon” status remains as it was, but extensive renovations took place. Bryan signed on to work with his old friend and eight months later they opened.
Both guys had worked at the commissary where the Swensen’s ice cream was made, so they had an idea what to do. Bryan took mental notes on his travels to Europe and the Creole Creamery opened with flavors not seen in these parts. Things like Lavender Honey ice cream, which remains a favorite to this day. He’s always dreaming up exotic combinations of flavors, like Golden Summer Fig, which includes saffron, orange blossom honey, and fig preserves. He admits this one may not be a bestseller, but for that he has Black and Gold Crunch, which is a strictly seasonal item that is available from the start of Saints training camp to the inevitable end of season. Superbowl year it was available the whole year, and it’s also running this whole year because. . .we were robbed!!!
In March these clever creamery guys tip their scoop to the old McKenzie’s, offering a whole month of throwback flavors like Buttermilk Drop, Doberge, and Turtle Cookies.
These three tales of summer refreshment have good backstories of the people behind them. The Brocatos go back generations to the old country, the Hansens were a loving Mom and Pop, and these are just two guys who are lifelong friends, whose kids go to the same schools and who vacation together. In business for 15 years now, and better buddies than ever. Success will do that. They just opened a third location in adorable Bay St .Louis, this one a franchise. After turning down requests for franchises for years, they warmed to the idea. Creole Creamery 38 flavors a nationwide chain? Who knows? For now, though, they are taking it slow and enjoying the creation of fun and delicious flavors, much appreciated by their neighbors and friends and the city they love.
Creole Creamery is the already-iconic new kid on the block. For further proof that they are all about the future, look no further than their Facebook and Instagram social media accounts for specials and deals.
Angelo Brocato
214 N Carrollton New Orleans
504-486-0078
Tu-Th 10-10
Friday & Saturday till 10:30pm
Sunday 10-9
Closed Monday
angelobrocatoicecream.com
Hansen’s Sno-Bliz
4801 Tchoupitoulas New Orleans
504-891-9788
Tue-Sun 1-7
Closed Monday
snobliz.com
Creole Creamery
4824 Prytania St New Orleans
504-894-8680
Sun-Th 12-10
Friday & Saturday till 11
Lakeview
6260 Vicksburg St New Orleans
504-482-2924
Sun-Th 2-9
Friday & Saturday till 10
Bay St Louis
209 Main St Bay St Louis
228-231-1943
Sun-Th noon-9pm
Friday & Saturday noon-10pm
creolecreamery.com
