Tommy Andrade's two restaurants in the warehouse district are both superb outposts for classy dining in the Creole-French style--a disappearing genre, it's incredible to say. This Cornish hen is a new addition to the menu at Tomas Bistro. A Cornish hen is really just a pygmy chicken with a disproportionate amount of breast meat, but that doesn't make it any less good. In the preparation the whole bird is roasted in the oven, then drizzles with a gastrique that lends a touch of sharpness as it works its way down into the stock-and-beans layer below. A whole head of garlic is in the cavity of the bird, which would have greater effect if the garlic had a slice removed at the top and the bottom, to let the garlic oils out. But it's still as fine as dish as it is a unique one.
Tomas Bistro. Warehouse District & Center City: 755 Tchoupitoulas. 504-527-0942.
This dish is ranked #199 in NOMenu's list of the 500 best dishes in New Orleans restaurants.
