Crispy Pork Cheeks With Dirty Rice @ Delmonico
Cheeks of any kind were almost never seen in New Orleans restaurants until recent years. Now you can get beef and veal cheeks in a number of restaurants, although they usually turn up on wine dinners or tasting menus. Pork cheeks have been harder to find. The ones at Delmonico--which at first glance seems too sophisticated for such a thing--have been a big hit on the restaurant menu of small plates. I get them every time I go there. The dirty rice is the perfect complement, as would be a glass of Petite Syrah.