I've told this story in this journal before, so I'll make it brief. In December 1974, I was in the early months of my three-year tenure as editor of New Orleans Magazine. I was putting in very long days writing, editing, and planning. I remember one specific Friday of that generally memorable time. It was Christmastime. In mid-evening, the 600 block of Gravier Street was dark, deserted, cold and windy. I remember paper trash blowing around. I was walking the few blocks to where my car was parked, underdressed for the weather, and feeling a little gloomy.
Then I walked in front of the Bon Ton. I looked at the gaslights flanking its entrance. Then into the windows, where a nearly-full dining room emanated a nice feeling. I went in. Of all the times I have dined in search of cheer, this one was among the best. I don't remember what I ate, but I remember how it felt. "Warmth" said it all.
Every December, if the weather is the right kind of windy and chilly, I re-enact this dinner. This year, I asked Mary Ann if she would join me. Her answer added further warmth.
We made our rendezvous at the Bon Ton a little after five. It was already dark. The earliest sunset of the year was just five days ago. We sat at a comfy table in the corner, well away from the double doors (which the Bon Ton had the sense to install a long time ago, to keep out the few days a year of chilly winds.)
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The Bon Ton's crawfish jambalaya, creamy good.[/caption]
Owners Wayne and Debbie Pierce were there. They always are. Wayne suggested that we start with, of all things, a plate of jambalaya. MA was wary of this. She likes brown, smoky, spicy Cajun jambalaya. This was more along Creole lines, with a mellow, creamy flavor. It was almost more like a pasta dish than a rice one. We agreed that it was delicious.
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The best crabmeat au gratin in New Orleans.[/caption]
After a pair of salads came both of the great house specialties: crabmeat au gratin and redfish Bon Ton. The former is what it says it is, and the best of its kind in New Orleans. The latter may well have been the dish I ate on that 1974 night: a piece of broiled black drum (almost never actually redfish) topped with lots of lump crabmeat and a lemon butter sauce. Simple enough, and as good as that dish comes.
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Redfish Bon Ton.[/caption]
Bread pudding for me at the end, but I had to eat it quickly. Mary Ann does not countenance long dinners, what with her back injury still not completely healed.
We talked with Wayne and Debbie for a few minutes, then headed, all warm inside and immune, into the wind and cold.
Nothing gets me more into the Christmas spirit.
Bon Ton Cafe. CBD: 401 Magazine. 504-524-3386.
