Diary 3|9|2016: A Great New Middle-Eastern Restaurant.

Written by Tom Fitzmorris March 10, 2016 17:05 in

DiningDiarySquare-150x150 Wednesday, March 9, 2016. A New Peak Player In Food From The Levant.
I have a lengthy meeting with Diane Newman, the radio station's program and operations director. We almost never have meetings, but corporate has called for this one. Having now gone through the routine a dozen times or so, I guess it's only so we can ascertain what page we're all on. Most of my questionnaires are full of the expression, "Everything's great!" My big issue these days, however, is that it has become more difficult in recent years to pull in phone calls from listeners. I think that this is caused by growing familiarity with the internet as a source of info. Most people would prefer to avoid real human beings for such quests, even though calling a talk show is clearly more fun. (This is the only reason I can think of as to why anyone would get a restaurant reservation on line instead of calling the restaurant to scope it out a little.) I believe the solution to what small problems we may have is to cogitate about what radio can do that other media can't. Getting people to laugh would be my first approach. To dinner at Hummus And More, about which I am hearing many good reports. It's open only a few months, but the staff has convincing credentials. H&M is in the former home of Mr. Gyros, whose owner passed away last year. It's not the best location I've seen, back off Severn Avenue far enough that you have to be looking for it to find it. Good thing they have a big sign. [caption id="attachment_50920" align="alignnone" width="480"]House salad at Hummus & More. House salad at Hummus & More.[/caption] I begin with a cup of lentil and spinach soup. I continue to find it impossible to get a bad lentil soup. Then comes a complicated, crunchy salad--one of the two sides you get with an entree. The other side is a serving of the namesake hummus, which I'm sure everyone knows us a puree of chickpeas, garlic, lemon juice, and tahine--the latter itself a pulverizing of sesame seeds). One taste of that and I am already convinced of the skill of the kitchen. Hummus&More-Kafta&LambKebabs The entree is a two-way kebab combo with kafta (ground lamb and beef) and grilled lamb loin. The latter is exceptionally good, grilled a point medium rare. [caption id="attachment_50918" align="alignnone" width="480"]Ashta for dessert. Ashta for dessert.[/caption] All this is terrific, but the greatest impression comes at dessert, when the most voluminous serving of ashta comes out. In this style, ashta is reminiscent of the Greek dessert galaktoboureko. Thin, flaky phyllo pastry packages a cloudlike mass of exquisitely light custard with rose flower water and pistachios. It's enough for four people. I love desserts like this, but all I could get down is half. The service staff is very attentive. The prices are a shade higher than I am accustomed to seeing, but they make up for that by the polish of all the food. Middle Eastern restaurants are always far too cheap anyway. Hummus And More is another restaurant that makes me believe I could offer a useful service to restaurateurs who can't think of good names for their establishments. FleurDeLis-3-Small
Hummus & More. Metairie: 3363 Severn Ave. 504-833-9228.