Friday, May 13, 2016.
Never Giving Up On A Restaurant.
A few days ago, a guy called me on the air and asked me to tell the story about Le Citron Bistro. We were running out of time that day, and all I got around to tell him is that the restaurant operates in the oldest building in New Orleans uptown of Canal Street. The owners make much of that fact, and for those interested in history and architecture you can read all about it on Citron's website (www.le-citronbistro.com). The story involves the Jesuits, which is almost proof of its veracity.
[caption id="attachment_51491" align="alignleft" width="320"]
Dining room at Le Citron Bistro.[/caption]The building has hosted a few restaurants over the years, notably Indulgence, a gourmet Creole bistro of the 1980s. Since 2004 it's been Le Citron. I have been four or five times over the years, and always left wondering what the owners had in mind. The only thing I can come up with is that it makes an interesting reception or banquet facility. All of my attempts to dine there a la carte resulted in an hour or so of minimalism.
The call on the radio show reminded me that it's been years since my last take of the place. I went there tonight and found that it's about where I left it. The menu was abbreviated. The dining room staff was just one guy. I was the only customer there when I arrived. Two more tables--one of them for six people--came in while I was there. I was right next to the six-top, and I couldn't help but pick up on snippets of their conversation. The man who seemed to lead the group indicated that somebody recommended Le Citron highly.
[caption id="attachment_51492" align="alignnone" width="480"]
Crab cakes at Le Citron.[/caption]
I was well into my meal by then. The first course was a pair of thin crab cakes of marginal goodness, topped by a sort of white remoulade sauce. The entree was the night's special: half a chicken, defined by the waiter as roasted. Maybe it was rotisserie. It came across as braised. It came with cubes of potatoes that were decidedly undercooked (firm and nearly crunchy in the centers) and green beans. A cup of light brown gravy was also there, but why I don't know. This chicken was well enough soaked already.
They did manage a hit for dessert: an excellent bread pudding with a dark brown sauce and a kind of praline flavor and whipped cream. Delicious.
I never give up on a restaurant, no matter how many times it's disappointed me. I will be back, but no time soon.
Today is the forty-ninth anniversary of the Jesuit High School Junior-Senior Prom, Classes of 1967 and 1968. It was the night I became a man, but not for the typical reason. I note the day every year. The best set-piece in that effort is a musical playlist that includes all of the top 50 records on the charts on this date in 1967. Between the records are the actual jingles heard on WNOE and WTIX, the two major pop music stations in those years. I have the whole thing loaded up on my phone, but for some reason I couldn't get it playing. So I just went home.
Next year, however, will be the fiftieth anniversary. I will be ready to do it all over again. I have decided that the half-century mark will be a good time to end this rubric.
Le Citron Bistro. Warehouse District & Center City: 1539 Religious. 504-566-9051.
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Saturday, May 14, 2016.
Twenty Minutes.
I get my car washed for the first time since I bought it back in February. Then I get a haircut at the Lion's Den tonsorial parlor in Covington. At noon, I pick up Mary Leigh for lunch at the Abita Roasting Company. She gets a salad-like, panini-style club sandwich with turkey, bacon, avocados, cheese, tomatoes, lettuce, and a few other things. I have a fried catfish platter, a good deal at $13.
Steve St. John and his lady take a seat one table away from ours. Steve, whose audio production studio is across the hall from mine, has the greatest commercial radio voice in New Orleans. If you listen to WWL radio for even ten minutes, you'll probably hear his voice at least three times. He is as nice a guy as he is talented.
I have a radio show to do at two, but it is delayed by an LSU baseball game. A long time. I don't get on the air until three-forty--a mere twenty minutes until the end. It's a good thing that I love being on the radio.
The Marys cross the lake to negotiate some wedding matters. I'm left at home alone but with much to do. Still hacking away at the computer disaster of a few weeks ago.
[caption id="attachment_51494" align="alignnone" width="480"]
Panang curry @ Thai Chili.[/caption]
I leave that irritation after a couple of hours of eye-crossing work. And I have dinner at the Thai Chili. I have my favorite Thai dish, Panang curry. I haven't had that for awhile, as I try other items on the big menu. I think they may have a new chef here. My last four meals (with the exception of one buffet I blundered into some weeks ago) have been exemplary. So is this one, a big bowl of orange coconut-milk-based sauce, at the three-star pepper level. Very enjoyable.
Thai Chili. Covington: 1102 N US 190. 985-809-0180.
Dining room at Le Citron Bistro.[/caption]The building has hosted a few restaurants over the years, notably Indulgence, a gourmet Creole bistro of the 1980s. Since 2004 it's been Le Citron. I have been four or five times over the years, and always left wondering what the owners had in mind. The only thing I can come up with is that it makes an interesting reception or banquet facility. All of my attempts to dine there a la carte resulted in an hour or so of minimalism.
The call on the radio show reminded me that it's been years since my last take of the place. I went there tonight and found that it's about where I left it. The menu was abbreviated. The dining room staff was just one guy. I was the only customer there when I arrived. Two more tables--one of them for six people--came in while I was there. I was right next to the six-top, and I couldn't help but pick up on snippets of their conversation. The man who seemed to lead the group indicated that somebody recommended Le Citron highly.
[caption id="attachment_51492" align="alignnone" width="480"]
Crab cakes at Le Citron.[/caption]
I was well into my meal by then. The first course was a pair of thin crab cakes of marginal goodness, topped by a sort of white remoulade sauce. The entree was the night's special: half a chicken, defined by the waiter as roasted. Maybe it was rotisserie. It came across as braised. It came with cubes of potatoes that were decidedly undercooked (firm and nearly crunchy in the centers) and green beans. A cup of light brown gravy was also there, but why I don't know. This chicken was well enough soaked already.
They did manage a hit for dessert: an excellent bread pudding with a dark brown sauce and a kind of praline flavor and whipped cream. Delicious.
I never give up on a restaurant, no matter how many times it's disappointed me. I will be back, but no time soon.
Today is the forty-ninth anniversary of the Jesuit High School Junior-Senior Prom, Classes of 1967 and 1968. It was the night I became a man, but not for the typical reason. I note the day every year. The best set-piece in that effort is a musical playlist that includes all of the top 50 records on the charts on this date in 1967. Between the records are the actual jingles heard on WNOE and WTIX, the two major pop music stations in those years. I have the whole thing loaded up on my phone, but for some reason I couldn't get it playing. So I just went home.
Next year, however, will be the fiftieth anniversary. I will be ready to do it all over again. I have decided that the half-century mark will be a good time to end this rubric.
Panang curry @ Thai Chili.[/caption]
I leave that irritation after a couple of hours of eye-crossing work. And I have dinner at the Thai Chili. I have my favorite Thai dish, Panang curry. I haven't had that for awhile, as I try other items on the big menu. I think they may have a new chef here. My last four meals (with the exception of one buffet I blundered into some weeks ago) have been exemplary. So is this one, a big bowl of orange coconut-milk-based sauce, at the three-star pepper level. Very enjoyable.
Thai Chili. Covington: 1102 N US 190. 985-809-0180.
