Diary 7|14|2017: Daniel Bonnot Visits. Brigtsen's Table.

Friday, July 14, 2017. Daniel Bonnot Visits For the First Time in Years. Dinner at Brigtsen's. The contenders for the title of Best Native French Chef, With Accent And All, New Orleans Limited, are as follows: Daniel Bonnot Gerard Crozier Roland Huet Rene Bajeux Claude Aubert Of these, only two are still alive, and only one is still cooking. Daniel Bonnot is the one not in a restaurant, and he says that he does not plan to return to that real work ever again. Since he landed in New Orleans in 1970 to build out the first menu of Louis XVI, he has cheffed his own places three times: Chez Daniel (on Metairie Road), 701 (where Herbsaint is now) and Tour Eiffel (across from the Pontchartrain. After those acts ended, he had a wonderful gig in France, where for years he gave cooking and immersion programs in a chateau for a number of years. In other words, it has been a nice life for Daniel, as even he admits. But that still doesn't mean that he's any more eager to get back to work. He shared all these outlooks and then some during a visit on the radio show today. Daniel is a bon vivant as much as he is anything else. Suffice it to say that we could have talked for hours. Daniel is one of the few people who has been omnipresent throughout my career as a food writer, and the subject of many thousands of my words. If I ever start on a memoir, he'd be near the front of it. Daniel went off to some event or other. My dining plans fell through when the radio show ended. After taking a nap in my chair (and explaining to colleague at the radio station how I do that) I headed up Magazine Street, knowing full well that nothing will inspire me. When I reached the Riverbend area, I mentally took inventory of the nearby restaurants. We are getting into the slow season for eateries, I mused. I wondered what my luck would be like in a long shot. [caption id="attachment_55349" align="alignleft" width="133"] The best table at Brigtsen's, some say.[/caption] Brigtsen's is so well known--not merely to locals, but to visitors to our city from all over the country--that it's not a place I'd ordinarily attempt without a reservation. But tonight there was magic. A table was emptying as I arrived, and the next occupants were late. Marna Brigtsen--who manages the dining room as if it were in her own home and you were a lifetime friend--had the perfect table for me, in the corner of the front room. "Best table in the house!" Marna said. Also advantageous at this table were three others whose occupants wanted to talk with me about the usual thing. In an unanimous vote these neighbors and I agreed that if eating delicious food is the goal, this is the arena to play in. The server gave me the rundown of today's offerings. A bisque made with chanterelle mushrooms kicked it off. What a wonderful delicacy that is--but no surprise from Frank, who has a thing for bisques and turns them out brilliantly. [caption id="attachment_55347" align="alignnone" width="480"] Veal sweetbreads @ Brigtsen's. [/caption] I followed that with a rustic scattering of seared veal sweetbreads. That was the peak of the evening, prepared without sauce (maybe there was a glaze) and sliced just the right size for the rich morsels. I can't recall whether I've had that variety meat at Brigtsen's before, but at this moment I can't think of a better serving. Nor could I recall having had a steak at Brigtsen's in a long time. (That one was blackened prime ribs, decades ago.) The sauce was composed of demi-glace in a marchand de vin sauce with a scattering of tasso. Everything about this plate stood up. [caption id="attachment_55348" align="alignnone" width="480"] Filet mignon with marchand de vin sauce and the tiniest onion rings in town. [/caption] The dessert was distinctive. It looked like a standard creme brulee, but it had two differences: 1) The custard was very light, almost flowing; and b) There was no bruleed sugar across the top. Maybe it sank to the bottom, which it could have. Whatever else could be said, it was lovely. I think I'll make a list of restaurants that are so good that it's a shame I don't patronize them often. The reason in this case (and others) is that Brigtsen's is so consistent and excellent that I don't have to check it often. I could have written everything I just wrote five years ago, without changes beyond a few details. I think I'll stop in more often before the summer is out. Brigtsen's. Riverbend: 723 Dante. 504-861-7610.