Diary 9|13-14|2017: Hurricane Paranoia. Tujague's Peaking.

Written by Tom Fitzmorris September 18, 2017 12:01 in

DiningDiarySquare-150x150 Wednesday, September 13, 2017. The Most Spartan Menu Of The Year. So Why Do I Feel Great? During the Great Hurricane Paranoia of recent weeks, I felt it imperative to load up with some halfway decent food, just in case. Nothing along the lines of canned red beans, Vienna sausage, or (heaven preserve me) potted meat food product. My emergency food is for shorter interruption of civilization. So I have a pound of deli ham, turkey, salami, and Swiss cheese. Two loaves of frozen multi-grain bread. This wouldn't be enough for a Katrina interruption (we were out of our powerless house for six weeks then), but for the inevitable week or so with no restaurants open. I don't believe that most people realize how much they have become dependent on the restaurant business in keeping us from going hungry. We all recall what happened when, after K, the people who were told to take refuge in the Superdome were shocked when they found no food vendors there. Nor food from any other source, either. (See "You're doing a great job, Brownie!" When it became clear that I would not need my food stash for either Harvey or Irma, I figured it was time to and make some sandwiches. I rarely eat lunch, so at first this was novel. By today, hoever, it looked like I needed to pick up the pace on the turkey. The sandwich I made was just under two inches of deli turkey. Tasted good, this I know. But I'd never had quite that much in one in a sandwich. And I never will again either, because during the night a familiar stinging ache moved into the space next to my big toe. The Gout. I know it when I feel it, and I was feeling it now. It was the turkey, I'll bet. I would limp along all day today before it began to fade. Which, fortunately, it did. Gout doesn't get me too badly. It's said to favor men (women get it only rarely) who enjoy eating well (that would be me), drink even better (check box #2), and indulge to an above-average degree in the romantic arts. Well, two out of three isn't bad. Thursday, September 14, 2017. Tujague's Reworks Its Menu For Restaurant Week. The word I am getting from restaurateurs is that the Coolinary program and the current Restaurant Week have been very good in stirring up business. That there were 102 restaurants doing the Coolinary, the number rose to 115 for the related Restaurant Week. People love a sale. I have been touting one of these every day for the past month or so. One I was thinking about featuring was Tujague's, but there have been so many to choose from and that I've held back on the famous restaurants. But today I was in the mood for Tujague's. Whatever that means. For most people familiar with the 1856-founded restaurant think about the five-course table d'hote dinner Tujague has offer through its history. But owner Mark Latter reinvented the menu completely two or three years ago. He kept the old table d'hote, but in small type. The new eats are much better than the old. The Restaurant Week menu at Tujague's is superb. Three courses. I began with a dozen steamed mussels, each one nearly perfect, in a half-rich cream sauce. I suspect this comes from Chef Guy Sockrider, who had turned out food like this at Muriel's, Tomas Bistro, and a few other places. He fits right in at Tujague's, where he has cooked for a year now. The waiter recommended other seafood, but they were edged out by the lemonfish, a piscine favorite of mine. It was the healthiest meal I've had in awhile, with only a little butter and steamed broccoli. Dessert was peche Melba. First time I've seen that anywhere but Antoine's in a long time. This is an excellent lineup of food for $38. Apparently the word is out. By the time I headed home, the main dining room was full, as were two private party rooms. This even though Decatur Street and its sidewalks are a tremendous mess. But this is the time of year that's best for renovations inside and out. Tujague's. French Quarter: 823 Decatur. 504-525-8676.