Escolar
Escolar is a controversial fish. It's a delicious fish on the grill, and is widely served in sushi bars. Its appetizing appearance and flavor ought to place it much higher on this list. But the species presents a couple of problems.
The name looks like something spelled backwards. It first became popular because Emeril Lagasse liked it and often served it. Recipes for it are in his cookbooks. (And few others.)
There's some confusion as to what kind of fish escolar actually is. We know it's a member of the tuna and mackerel family. But databases of Gulf fish show several species called escolar. One of them is also called oilfish, which some people in the fish business say is widely sold as escolar, its close relative.
The true escolar is not oilfish. It has the texture of tuna, but it's white instead of red. Indeed, other names escolar goes by include "white tuna" and "albacore." (The latter is inaccurate.)
Real escolar is one yummy fish. The fat content is very high, and it keeps the fish incomparably tender on the grill. Indeed, escolar may be the ultimate species for grilling purposes, and I hardly see it prepared any other way. The fat (none of which is apparent after it's cooked, although it does get on your hands when you work with the raw fish) also contributes to the flavor. It's mellow, meaty, and just plain good.
Escolar should be cut into thick fillets. I like to marinate it in something spicy (but not acidic) overnight, then get it onto the grill or the hot black iron skillet. As in the case of tuna, the fish shouldn't be overcooked--leave it juicy in the center.
Now the bad news. Escolar gives some people who eat it a harmless but inconvenient reaction in the lower digestive tract. (I don't have to spell this out, do I?) It happens to me every time I eat escolar. But I find the fish so delicious that I eat it anyway. (Although I refrain from doing so in sushi bars.) This is something you should know about--but not worry about too much. It doesn't get everybody that way.
