Escolar is controversial. It first became popular when Emeril decided he liked it and ran it often on his menus. It's a delicious fish when coated with Creole seasoning and then walked across a hot wood-burning grill. It's also widely served in sushi bars. But there's some confusion as to what escolar actually is. We know it's a member of the tuna and mackerel family. But databases of Gulf fish show several species called escolar. One of them is also known as oilfish. Some in the fish business say that oilfish is widely sold as escolar, its close relative. True escolar, however, is not oilfish. It has the texture of tuna, but it's white instead of red. Indeed, other names escolar goes by include "white tuna" and "albacore." (The latter is inaccurate.) Real escolar is one yummy fish. The fat content is high, keeping the fish tender on the grill. The fat (none of which is apparent after it's cooked, although it does get on your fingers when you work with the raw fish) also contributes to the flavor. It's mellow, meaty, and just plain good. Escolar should be cut into thick fillets. I like to marinate it in something spicy (but not acidic) overnight, then get it onto the grill or the hot black iron skillet. As in the case of tuna, the fish shouldn't be overcooked--leave it juicy in the center. Now the bad news. Escolar gives some people who eat it a harmless but inconvenient reaction in the lower digestive tract. (I don't have to spell this out, do I?) It happens to me every time I eat escolar. But I find the fish so delicious that I sometimes eat it anyway. This is something you should know about but not worry about too much. It doesn't get everybody that way.
