Friday, January 14, 2011. Saltwater Grill. O'Henry's was mentioned on both the radio show and the web messageboard during the last few days. I had to profess my ignorance of what's going on over there these days. I think the local hamburger chain may have a new owner. When the Marys told me they were free for dinner, I asked those two burger hounds whether they wanted to try the place.
By the time I arrived at the O'Henry's on S. Carrollton near St. Charles, the Marys had gone in, waited, watched, talked to a waiter who they said was nice but overwhelmed, ordered an appetizer, didn't like it, and left with no inclination to return. They were waiting for me on the sidewalk, and while doing so Mary Leigh got a better offer for the evening. As soon as I delivered her car she was off. Well, at least I got to drive her car today.
Mary Ann said that we should try the Saltwater Grill, right across the street. She was right about that. I haven't been to the place since it was in its original location on Carrollton at Willow. I have had some of their food at the French Quarter Festival and other such venues, and found it quite interesting.
The place was busy, but we got a table after only a minute or two. They were happy to let the two of us occupy a four-top, so we could get away from the single-door entrance and its cold air flows with each opening. The room is narrow and close, but interestingly decorated. A drawing of the grand Carrollton Hotel was next to our table. (I never heard of it before, but it was once about two blocks from here.) On another wall was a collection of the military-style medals worn by many, many former Kings of Carnival from the Rex organization. Turns out that the owner of the place is connected by blood to that august society.
The menu was straightforward. Fried and grilled seafood. A couple of soups. A few other platters. A few specials. The server, who put forth a full eager-to-please attitude while excusing herself to take care of other tables, advised us on the best items of the night.
The first round was the soup of the day--oyster Rockefeller--served in a coffee mug. Actual oysters were in the creamy, spinachy broth, and another one was fried and floated on top like a crouton. Passably good. Mary Ann had fried green tomatoes topped with shrimp remoulade. No part of this was flawed, but I can't say the way it was thrown onto the plate added anything to the enjoyment.
The entree was a seafood platter. They allow you to have its components any way you like: fried, grilled, or blackened. Good idea! I asked for grilled shrimp and fried oysters and catfish. I wish I had not made that decision, because here were shrimp exactly like the ones scattered over the fried green tomatoes a minute ago. The oysters were bigger than I've seen lately. So too (and unfortunately) was the single fillet of catfish. Big catfish are much inferior to small catfish, this proved again. And the fries had left the oil some time earlier.
Mary Ann is a specialist in crab cakes. That was her entree, and it both distressed and edified her--first because it wasn't very good, second because it kept her from eating too much.
The scene and the dining room staff at the Saltwater Grill are all you'd want from a neighborhood seafood café. But whoever sets the goals for the kitchen needs to raise his sights a couple of clicks. They also need to improve the exhaust system. The smell of frying fish got into my wool jacket, sending it to the cleaners prematurely.
Mary Ann drove us home. All the way we discussed Mary Leigh's social life, which is at turns wonderful and disappointing. All her friends are nice and they do nice things together. But none of them seem to be getting anywhere with the opposite sex. Boy, do I remember how that was. I know it will play out well in the long run, but that doesn't make it less frustrating for these beautiful girls now. Young men who haven't already latched onto a girl are as dorky as ever, and maybe even more so.
Saltwater Grill & Oyster Bar. Riverbend: 710 S Carrollton Ave . 504-324-6640.
