No dish served in a New Orleans restaurant has a better title than Sweetbreads Sins at Arnaud's. It was named for Lisa Sins, who for 34 years was essential to the operating of that big restaurant on Bienville Street. She wasn't a cook, a server, a bartender, a hostess or a manager--although I'm sure she served in all of those roles in a pinch. If she had an official title, I guess it was sales manager.
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Lisa Sins, having a ball as usual.[/caption]Sweetbreads Sins (the dish) also had many identities over the years. Right now, it's a classic ris de veau meuniere--the thymus gland of a young veal calf, dusted with seasoned flour and sauteed until sizzling light brown in butter. Like its namesake, it is luscious and unique. Tender and wonderful--just like Sweetbreads Sins, the lady, who passed away on Tuesday after a long struggle against cancer.
Through her career, Lisa was the person you'd call if you wanted to have an Arnaud's experience beyond the already pretty wonderful dinner you could have by just walking in. Arnaud's didn't need a lot of selling to anyone wanting a classy, distinctly New Orleans feast. But if you arranged things with Lisa, you would come away from the meeting with the feeling you were on the verge of having the best dinner of your life in one of the best restaurants in the world.
"Sweetbreads Sins." Sounds like fun. And she was. Hang out with her in the bar or have her visit your table, and all you'd do is laugh the entire time. And somehow all the arrangements for that dinner for 150 next month would be made. (I orchestrated quite a few such dinners at Arnaud's through the years, and I know.)
There's a nice, small private dining room at Arnaud's that will shortly be renamed "The Sins Room." She would have loved that. Of course, you'll always be able to have Sweetbreads Sins for dinner. The memory of her just makes it all sweeter.
