Kenton's. Uptown: 5757 Magazine St. 504-891-1177.

Kenton's

Uptown 2: Washington To Napoleon: 5757 Magazine St. 504-891-1177. Map.
Nice Casual.
AE DC DS MC V
Website

ANECDOTES AND ANALYSIS Magazine Street since Katrina is unquestionably the most interesting theater of restaurant dining. Although almost any kind of restaurant that could stand a chance of success on the Street Of Dreams has achieved it, almost all of them have been modest in terms of creature comforts. The food may be excellent, but the glass ceiling for alluring premises could not be more uniform it it were decreed by law. With a name taken from a historic trader in bourbon whiskey, Kenton's surprised early diners with its grand circumstances. This is a very handsome place, from the long, well-stocked wall of grade-A liquors to the airy dining rooms and the appealing outdoor dining rooms. Excepting only its fellow Magazine-Street competitor Shaya, it's the most impressive restaurant of the past dozen months. And a very busy one, too. [caption id="attachment_51385" align="alignnone" width="480"] Spicy salad of fresh trout.[/caption]

WHY IT'S NOTEWORTHY In a time when most of the restaurant business is in a headlong surge to be as casual and unceremonious as possible, some of us avid diners miss the days in which, when you went out to dine for an occasion, the restaurant was much more comfortable than the same meal taken at home. Uptown, of all places, ought not to be lined with eighty-five restaurants, all of which are rustic, funky, or even grubby. Food is indeed the most important thing, but the food declines if the seriousness of the rest of the place is clearly low-priority. Kenton's is beautiful. As its kitchen settles in, the food is catching up. [caption id="attachment_51387" align="alignnone" width="480"] Smoked and grilled oysters at Kenton's. [/caption]

WHAT'S GOOD Chef Kyle Knall claims an American pedigree for the kitchen, and ties into that general guidance the flavors and aromas of burning wood, searing meats, and bourbon whiskey. There's also more than a hint of Southern cooking, whose efforts to become established in New Orleans continue to languish. All of this is rendered in a thoroughly modern style, such that on a recent visit with my wife we unintentionally wound up with four preliminary plates with a raw-seafood components. In all my visits here, the strategy of building the whole meal from appetizers wound up being the most rewarding. A good thing, because there are twice as many small plates than large. I would add to this quantitative analysis that the small courses are qualitatively better, too. Except for the provenance of the ingredients, the flavors are not especially those of New Orleans.

BACKSTORY Sean Josephs and Mani Dawes opened Kenton's late in 2015, after tearing down a building or two at the lake-downtown corner of Magazine and Nashville Avenue. The new complex is much larger than what had been there before, with not only a large indoor footprint but also a parking lot (rare anywhere on Magazine) and a lot of space for outdoor tables.

DINING ROOM
The bar is the most appealing area, with a lively social aspect. Some of the banquettes in there have support legs that are a bit uncomfortable, particularly when four people are at the table. The sidewalk patio is a delightful space for dining or cocktails. The most formal dining room is still airy and easy.

REVIEWER'S NOTEPAD

[title type="h6"]FULL ONLINE MENU[/title] [caption id="attachment_51388" align="alignnone" width="480"] A special of very lean pork belly at Kenton's.[/caption] BEST DISHES
Starters Area-3 oysters on the half shell »Red snapper tartare, horseradish and lemon Shrimp toast, celery and ginger aioli »Crispy grits, country ham and bourbon aioli »Fried oysters, pickled turnips and jalapeno aioli Grilled flatbread, wood roasted carrots and green garlic ricotta »Smoked drum mousse, Cajun caviar and grilled bread Wood-fired oysters, smoked onion, country ham, and salsify Chicken liver terrine, charred onion jam and country bread Grilled quail, pickled spring onion, jalapeno, and potato »Smoked trout salad, butter lettuce, crushed potatoes, lemon Squid ink spaghetti, grilled shrimp, celery root, and country ham Sugar snap pea salad, ricotta, cucumber, and sheep's milk cheese Mixed greens, shaved radish and sherry vinaigrette Braised lamb filled pasta, mushrooms, snap peas, and sheep's milk cheese Entrees »Grilled pompano, butter beans, spring vegetables, green garlic broth »Slow-smoked trout, mushroom, charred red onion, fried capers Braised & grilled pork, green garlic, carrots, spaetzle, and orange Brown butter glazed drum, butternut squash, salsify, and Swiss chard Grilled butcher's steak (hanger steak), potato, onions, and smoked oyster sauce »Chicken under a brick, cauliflower, broccoli, basil, and garlic croutons Desserts Yogurt cheesecake, pink grapefruit granita »Strawberry & citrus parfait, vanilla custard, basil, and buttermilk cornmeal cake »Vanilla bourbon soaked pecan cake, candied figs, buttermilk, lemon poppy ice cream »Chocolate mint tart, salted caramel and bourbon caramel ice cream Key lime pie, cashew praline, whipped cream, and buttermilk sherbet »Ice cream: Bourbon caramel, coffee, lemon poppy, lime Sorbet: buttermilk sherbet, strawberry FOR BEST RESULTS
Even if it's just the two of you, it's better to make a meal out of the small plates and perhaps only one split entree. They are serious about drinkmaking here, although you will probably remark that they're a little too assiduous in measuring pours.

OPPORTUNITIES FOR IMPROVEMENT
I gives me the creeps to see oysters being sold by the individual oyster in restaurants. Few do this, Kenton's among them. Who eats one oyster? I don't like the statement this makes about our excellent, abundant bivalves.

FACTORS OTHER THAN FOOD Up to three points, positive or negative, for these characteristics. Absence of points denotes average performance in the matter.

Dining Environment +2

Consistency

Service+1

Value

Attitude +2

Wine & Bar +1

Hipness +2

Local Color +2

 

SPECIAL ATTRIBUTES

• Courtyard or deck dining
• Romantic
• Open Sunday lunch and dinner
• Open Monday lunch and dinner
• Open after 10 p.m.
• Oyster bar
• Easy, nearby parking
• Reservations recommended