Monday, December 21, 2009. Solstice. Joe And Aline's Kids Meet At Antoine's. The winter solstice cheers me up. We have most of the winter weather ahead of us, but the days will lengthen. That's important not just in the reptilian part of my brain, but also for my radio show. Like most AM stations (WWL is a lucky exception), 1350 is required to give off a compromised signal after dark. And dark comes early this time of year--just an hour into my show. But that deficiency begins improving today.
Two years ago, I invited my sisters and their immediate families to join me for a Christmas-season dinner at Antoine's. It's my gift to all of them, most of whom I hardly ever see. Everybody enjoyed it so much that we're going to keep it going permanently.
Tonight's the night. All of Joseph and Aline Fitzmorris's children were there: my sisters Judy, Karen, and Lynn, and me. And Judy's husband Walter Howat (they will be married fifty years next year), their daughter (and my godchild) Holly, and Karen's son Evan, who is about Mary Leigh's age. My whole gang completed the table, a nice long one next to the big Christmas tree in the big red room at Antoine's.
Assisted by my regular waiter Charles Carter, we feasted in the grand, classic style in which Christmas should be celebrated. The popular appetizer was the oysters 1-1-1 from the Reveillon menu; I like it so much I got a 2-2-2. A few shrimp au gratins and crabmeat ravigotes were in evidence, too. The salad course revealed a long-running weakness at Antoine's. Their house salad has a vinaigrette with so little flavor that it can seem the kitchen forgot to add dressing at all. Which is exactly what three to my left thought. Antoine's has better dressings, anyway. I had one on my asparagus salad; it had a bit of garlic and Creole mustard, I think.
Soft shell crabs, trout with crawfish etouffee on top, and filet tips en brochette with marchand de vin sauce and mushrooms comprised most of the entree table. I was in the mood for chicken Rochambeau, the first dish I ever had here, forty years ago, and one I've always liked. Antoine's has made many improvements to its food, but a few dishes have declined--this one most steeply. It used to be half of a roasted, boneless chicken with a sweet brown sauce and bearnaise, and a thick slice of ham underneath. Now they're using a sort of chicken breast cutlet, and it's simply not the same dish. Nor nearly as good. No dish more needs a restoration than this one.
A massive baked Alaska made the scene, inscribed with our family name and "Merry Christmas." Yes, corny. No, not the best possible food in New Orleans. Yes, very expensive. But add it all up and it seems perfect for the holiday. Next year, I think I'll plan a special menu for the occasion.
Antoine's. French Quarter: 713 St. Louis. 504-581-4422. French Creole.
