Monday, January 21, 2013.
Max, Anne, Butch, Peggy And Me At Galatoire's.
I've explained the Max Zander Award a few times already. Our PBS station WVUE gave it to Max for his long years of help with the station's annual wine auction. (Max was Mr. Wine around town for decades, starting in the 1960s, when nobody drank wine.) Max died in the year following, and in his honor WYES began an annual wine dinner honoring other luminaries--although the honor was in danger when they chose me as the first winner. Butch Stedman, the wine man from Dorignac's, made it credible again the next year. As did major wine donor Brad Adams last year.
This year's award was posthumous. Anne Gooch was one of the founders of the New Orleans Wine and Food Experience, as well as being active in many other public endeavors. She was also the wife of David Gooch, a fourth-generation Galatoire and the last member of the family in a major management role at the restaurant.
Anne's main qualification for the award was that she was a genuine bon vivant, loving food, wine, and great times with her friends. It was fun to be one of her friends. She was a regular caller to the radio show. She posted frequently on NOMenu's messageboard, under the nickname "Clicquot." As the guests entered the dining room for her Max Zander Award dinner, they were handed a glass of Veuve Clicquot. I wonder how many picked up on that reference.
Galatoire's hosted the dinner. Not because of the family connection, but because they hosted all but one of the past events, picking up the whole tab and letting the $150 per person go to WYES. With 115 guests, the restaurant was busy for a day on which it's usually closed.
And we weren't the whole of it. On the second floor, Galatoire's was holding its annual auction of tables for the Friday before Mardi Gras. I didn't hear what the total brought in was (it all goes to charity), but I did talk with a man who was both at the auction and the dinner. He told me his bid for a table failed, because the winner bid four times as much as he had--deep into four figures, at that.
After munching on soufflee potatoes, fried eggplant, and some really fine fried oysters with the Veuve Clicquot, we sat down for a dinner of turtle soup, a salad, trout amandine, braised short ribs, and caramel custard. All except the short ribs are dishes that Galatoire's has served for a hundred years.
The short ribs were good. But. Every time I eat them, I have the same three thoughts:
1. Why did this cut of beef suddenly become popular in restaurants all over town, at the same time?
B. What role did it inexpensiveness play at that time? (The cut has since become laughably expensive.)
III. It has the flavor and mouthfeel of the roast beef you'd use for a poor boy sandwich. Which is delicious, but it's still the beef from a poor boy, at many times the price.
Just asking.
I had a nice spot at the table. To my right was WYES producer, longtime friend, and co-author with me of Lost Restaurants, Peggy Scott Laborde. On my left was Dr. James Moises, who aside from being an ER physician owns a very good winery in Oregon specializing in Pinot Noir. He has since expanded his wine business to include wine distribution. He was kind enough to supply the wines for tonight, which were very good. If they let me have a vote, I will nominate Dr. Moises for next year's Max award.
It was a good, loud, Galatoire's party. The perfect kind for Anne Gooch. Who loved life, among many other things.
To browse through all of the Dining Diaries since 2008, go here.
