One. Riverbend: 8132 Hampson. 504-301-9061.

Written by Tom Fitzmorris September 18, 2010 19:14 in

4 Fleur
Average check per person $35-$45
 BreakfastNo Breakfast SundayNo Breakfast MondayNo Breakfast TuesdayNo Breakfast WednesdayNo Breakfast ThursdayNo Breakfast FridayNo Breakfast Saturday
LunchNo Lunch SundayNo Lunch MondayLunch TuesdayLunch WednesdayLunch ThursdayLunch FridayNo Lunch Saturday
DinnerNo Dinner SundayDinner MondayDinner TuesdayDinner WednesdayDinner ThursdayDinner FridayDinner Saturday

One

Uptown 4: Riverbend, Carrollton & Broadmoor: 8132 Hampson. 504-301-9061. Map.
Nice Casual.
AE DC DS MC V
Website

WHY IT'S NOTEWORTHY
A small restaurant with a tight focus: the turning out of exciting contemporary Creole cooking. Despite the minuscule kitchen, they succeed at this consistently and in an original style. Unless you're a regular, you probably have not had these dishes before. They're so intensive that they even bake their own bread.

WHAT'S GOOD
Taking a seat at the food bar with a glass of wine makes for very interesting ordering. The chefs--who are three or four feet on the other side of the counter, have nearly their entire kitchen operation within your sight. When you see something that looks good, tell them to make it for you. It might be the best-illustrated menu in town, and the sights and sounds make you hungry.

BACKSTORY
Co-owners Scott Snodgrass (chef) and Lee McCullough (dining room manager) came out of the Clancy's organization. (They ran the short-lived but excellent Lee Circle Restaurant.) They had just hit their stride at One open when the hurricane hit, but they managed to open it shortly thereafter. The building has hosted a number of restaurants in the past, notably Frankie's Cafe.

DINING ROOM
The restaurant and its kitchen are both tiny, but pleasant enough. The half-dozen or so seats at the food bar are the most interesting places to dine, but you can't get far away from the open kitchen. The four-tops along the wall are the most comfortable; the teeny deuces next to them less so. The drinks bar always seems to have its own scene in progress, fueled by well-made and generous cocktails.

ESSENTIAL DISHES
Starters
Escargots, fried green tomato, celery root bordelaise
Crabmeat, mirliton, Vidalia onion au gratin
Pan-seared scallops, pickled beets, blueberry demi-glace
Liver and mushroom páté, preserved fennel, watercress salad Sweet potato gnocchi, sage, pecans, blue cheese
Rabbit and andouille gumbo
Gazpacho
Mixed green salad, sweet onion vinaigrette
Watermelon, lollo rossa salad, goat cheese, vanilla vinaigrette
Heirloom tomato, fresh mozzarella Caprese
Sesame and ginger sashimi tuna salad, cucumber, avocado
Entrees
Tamarind glazed chicken, crushed peanuts, spicy noodle stir fry
Braised pork belly, jalapeño cornbread, plum and pepper jelly
Grilled redfish with a peach, cucumber relish, baby bok choy
Grilled beef tenderloin, beef shoulder rillettes, Stilton
Spaghetti in a tomato and red wine sauce, fried calamari, mushrooms
Lunch Entrees
Smothered chicken, rice, green beans
Veggie pasta, garlic-parmesan sauce
BLT with basil aioli served on focaccia, shoestring potatoes
BBQ shrimp and grits with wild mushrooms
Open-face brisket sandwich on focaccia, shoestring potatoes
Desserts
Creme brulee
Swiss dark chocolate cake

FOR BEST RESULTS
If you're more interested in the food aspect more than anything else in the restaurant, you surely should sit at the food bar and watch them cook. The chefs are never too busy to tell you what they're doing.

OPPORTUNITIES FOR IMPROVEMENT
It would be nice if the place were bigger, but that might ruin the dynamics. The tables near the door have a way of getting caught in standee traffic.

FACTORS OTHER THAN FOOD
Up to three points, positive or negative, for these characteristics. Absence of points denotes average performance in the matter.

  • Dining Environment +1
  • Consistency +2
  • Service+2
  • Value +1
  • Attitude +2
  • Wine & Bar +1
  • Hipness +2
  • Local Color +1

 

SPECIAL ATTRIBUTES
  • Romantic
  • Open Monday dinner
  • Easy, nearby parking
  • Reservations recommended

ANECDOTES AND ANALYSIS
The reason we don't have many teeny restaurants in America is that it's difficult to make a profit with them. Minor irritations like reservation no-shows take a much bigger revenue bite on a percentage basis in the little places. In the restaurant's flush early days, would-be walk-ins find that getting a table without a reservation is impossible, and so never try again. Finally, a restaurant with 40 seats needs as many people in the kitchen as one with twice as many. The One guys manage such a tight ship that they've sailed past the five-year mark and now look secure. However, I wouldn't be surprised if someday they move to a bigger location.