Oysters Slessinger @ Katie's
When Katie's reopened five years after Katrina shut it down, the owners added a welcome oyster-shucking operation. As has been the case in restaurants with oyster bars, Katie's installed an array of grilled oyster dishes, of which this one is best. The bivalves get grilled on their half-shells with a topping of bacon, spinach, shrimp and Provel cheese. That last item is a favorite in St. Louis, and so seldom found elsewhere that you practically have to smuggle it in by packet boat from St. Louis to get it down here. It's more or less a mixture of cheddar and provolone. Katie's Scot Craig uses it liberally throughout the menu, from pizza to this rich oyster appetizer, which is worth the wait. But there's good news about that, too. Now that Katie's has an extra dining room upstairs, the gap between your arrival and your eating is much shorter. The better to eat oysters Slessinger (named for a well-known local coach).
