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Pho Tau Bay
Gretna: 113 C West Bank Expy. 504-368-9846. Map. WHY IT'S NOTEWORTHY WHAT'S GOOD BACKSTORY DINING ROOM ESSENTIAL DISHES FOR BEST RESULTS OPPORTUNITIES FOR IMPROVEMENT FACTORS OTHER THAN FOOD
Very Casual
MC V
The first Vietnamese restaurant to specialize in the brothy beef-and-noodle soup called pho, this utilitarian little place overcomes the starkness of its address (an old strip mall off West Bank Expressway) to attract as loyal a following as held by any restaurant in town. Pho Tau Bay is always busy, and with good reason: the food is good, served in almost laughable abundance, and sold at bottom dollar. Many Vietnamese like eating pho first thing in the morning, so this place opens early. (It also closes early.)
Those who are hooked on eating pho need no explanation. It seems simple enough: a light beef broth brought to the table with any of several kinds of beef (including some unusual cuts), chicken or shrimp. Also in the bowl are noodles. On the side is a plate of herbs, lemon wedges, and leafy vegetables. On the table are hot sauce, nuoc mam, and other condiments. The more you eat it, the better it gets--although, for me--it never gets as good as a number of others I could name. If the soup aspect doesn't appeal to you, the various dishes of grilled meats atop cool noodles are easy to get into. The stretchy-skinned, room-temperature spring rolls make a good beginning. And that's most of the menu. No Chinese food.
Pho Tau Bay means “airplane soup.” Y Vu, the father of the owner, operated a string of pho shops in Saigon during the Vietnam War, and sold much of this national dish to American soldiers at a stand near the air base. Thu Cao, his daughter, opened the New Orleans restaurant with her sister and her sister's husband Karl Takacs--a U.S. Army veteran of the war. The rest of the family is involved, too. Pho Tau Bay had expanded to as many as four locations before Katrina, all of which were badly damaged. The family returned to town after a few months to open the West Bank original, which has remained packed as usual ever since.
It's a big, long room (it almost feels like a double-wide trailer, but isn't), more attractively decorated than you might guess from the outside. Long tables designed to be shared with other customers fill much of the space, although smaller tables are there, too. Racks with chopsticks, soup spoons, sauces, and napkins sprout from the center. Service is rapid. The crowd is always happy.
Spring rolls.
Vietnamese sweet and sour soup with seafood.
Pho ("thin soup") of any variety.
Bun dishes (cold noodles with grilled meats.)
Bo kho (a spicy beef stew).
Com ga roti (fried Cornish hen with honey mustard sauce).
Banh mi (Vietnamese-style poor boy sandwiches).
Don’t worry about whether you’re doing it right--just eat it. Great both on the hottest summer days and the coldest winter days, somehow. They also make an assortment of good grilled dishes on pillows of room-temperature noodles.
Regardless of the enthusiasm of the regulars, this is not the best pho in town--although it's plenty good. The service is rushed, although the staff is happy to bring you anything special you need.
Up to three points, positive or negative, for these characteristics. Absence of points denotes average performance in the matter.
SPECIAL ATTRIBUTES
- Open Monday lunch and dinner
- Open all afternoon
- Unusually large servings
- Quick, good meal
- Good for children
- Easy, nearby parking
- No reservations
ANECDOTES AND ANALYSIS
“Pho” is the word for a special kind of soup in the Vietnamese cuisine. It starts with a flavorful, usually somewhat spicy broth with chicken, seafood, meat, or all three, with noodles. It comes in a big bowl with a plate of many different fresh greens and herbs on the side, ranging from letuce to mint. These are complete meals--so much so that a whole class of restaurant has evolved to serve it.
Pho Tau Bay is the best of those in this area. They serve a tremendous assortment of pho here, along with a limited (by Vietnamese standards) menu of other Vietnamese eats. Environment, service, and prices are at the extreme low end, but its many regulars find that appealing. (As do I.)
