Sheepshead
Sheepshead is unarguably the most underrated of all the fish we eat locally, for reasons for that have nothing to do with its looks or goodness. In flavor and looks, it's right in the range most people prefer.
The reason it's not eaten more often is that name. Sheepshead.
One night at Mr. B’s, I overheard a couple of tourists reading the menu. “Listen to this, Heather. ‘Grilled fresh sheepshead served with a lemon beurre blanc.’ My goodness, they really do eat anything down here!”
That’s why the state fish authorities created an alternate name: rondeau sea bream. But it’s been slow catching on.
The other problem is also pure public relations. There are so many sheepshead in local waters that they’re always cheap. Unscrupulous fish dealers are always swapping it for other, more expensive fish. But they get away with it, because the taste of sheepshead is at least as good as what it’s being swapped for.
Sheepshead is nothing new. Its on New Orleans menus as far back as my collection goes (100 years). Yet we’re still not used to the name. Which, frankly, is apt. Sheepsheads’ big heads have teeth reminiscent of the wooly animal’s.
But it’s a beautiful piece of fish. It's white, firm, and flavorful without being oily. The larger ones are very good on the grill or in the black iron skillet, where it stays moist. Smaller ones can be pan-sauteed or broiled to resemble redfish or drum.
I’m always pleased to find sheepshead offered as a fish of the day, and I often order it. I’ve never had less than a delicious fish made with the species anywhere. It’s a fish that you should never hesitate to order or buy for your home kitchen.
As long as you don’t have to clean it. You get less fillet per pound than you do from most fish. And that head is really big. But most of us don’t have to worry about any of that. We just eat.
