Thursday, January 26, 2012.
Ignatius Eatery. Crossing The Street.
It's hard to cross Magazine Street. I'll have to remember that next time I eat anywhere along the restaurant-studded Street of Dreams. Tonight, I parked directly across the street from my target, Ignatius Eatery. It's one of only three eateries in town that actually calls itself an "eatery." And since I'm digressing, I may as well mention that fifty-four restaurants currently have Magazine Street addresses. And that doesn't even count places that are just off Magazine, like the Flaming Torch.
One more indirection. The "Street of Dreams" nickname originated in a cover article in the extinct local weekly Figaro in 1973. I had a hand in writing and designing the feature, although I think Jon Newlin came up with the headline. I have never found an instance of its being used before then. Now it's part of the street's identity. I think that's because of the near-rhyme of "Magazine, Street of Dreams." An exact rhyme wouldn't be as memorable. Imperfections are not only acceptable, but desirable.
Okay.
A half-hour ago, I said I was parked across from Ignatius on Magazine Street. Both going and coming, I had to wait for a long time for a break in the traffic. A normal person wouldn't have had this problem. But although my ankle injury of nearly a year ago is pretty well healed, there are some things I'm chary of doing. Going down steep stairs, for example. (Not up, only down.) And running. I could have crossed the street five times if I had been willing to break into a trot. I waited instead, because I'm not sure I can.
I first went to Ignatius about a year after it opened, in 2007, I think. I thought it was mediocre, although I liked the faithfully retro look. It reminded me of an old restaurant and bar in Little Woods. I didn't like the roast beef poor boy on which they were attempting to hang a reputation.
But a guy called me on the radio, and said Ignatius's gumbo was as excellent as any. He called back a week later to ask whether I'd dropped everything and gone right over. Now I had two matching bugs in my ear. And tonight I felt the old roast beef hunger.
It was cold outside Ignatius and dark inside. I took a table as far from the door as I could (not far enough). I told the friendly young woman who served me for coffee. I don't often drink coffee through a meal--not even breakfast. But given the chill (it was 32 at the ranch this morning), it seemed perfect. She brought a big mug marked "Rue De La Course," the name of a coffeeshop far downtown on the Street of Dreams. Ah! Same owner. I'd forgotten that.
Mystery: Which of the two gumbos was the rave about? I like chicken gumbo a little better than seafood gumbo. Its was very good, loaded with chicken and sausage. The roux could have been darker, but that's an acceptable variation.
Before the roast beef poor boy came, I knew it would be too much food. I resolved to eat half the sandwich. I couldn't. I wiped it out. The beef and the gravy were right on. The bread could have been toasted a little longer, but most places don't heat the bread at all.
The only funny thing was that I didn't see or taste any mayonnaise--an essential ingredient for the classic roast beef poor boy flavor. Not enough pickles, either. The server took care of that, though, and brought a coffee refill too.
After all that, how did I also down a bread pudding? Because I must. It's my job. This one was great. Light, fluffy, not too sweet. Second great bread pudding this week.
I left stuffed, making it even more difficult to break into a run to get back across the street. As I stood there waiting for a really long break, two cabs pulled up, thinking that's what I wanted.
For those who read this the Tuesday it's published in the Menu Daily, please note that Ignatius is one of those restaurants open on Sunday and Monday, but closed on Tuesday.
Ignatius Eatery. Uptown: 4200 Magazine. 504-896-2225.
