Thursday, March 1, 2012.
Recovery From Redemption. Pepe's In Lacombe.
"We are rid of February, and good riddance, if you ask me."--E.J. Kahn, Jr.
Most years, that's also how I feel on this date. But this February was good enough to deserve an extra day. Even counting that big storm two weeks ago, the weather has been clement--even absurdly so. It went up to eighty-four at the Cool Water Ranch yesterday, forcing me to turn on the aycee. And there was that nice thaw of relations between Mary Ann and me.
Up late last night after the Eat Club, I was in catchup mode all day, and caught up by skipping the commute and giving my quota of radio from my desk at home.
Then off to Pepe's in Lacombe. Everybody who calls me about the place just loves it. I've tried to go a few times, but I never found it open. This time I made sure before I left, as a person as smart as I like to think I am would do.
Pepe's is on the old section of Lacombe's Main Street where the traffic used to go before US 190 was realigned decades ago. Such roads always have a vague abandoned look, and so does this one. Pepe's brightens up the block, however, and its dining rooms are colorful and well tended.
The menu reminded me of Mexican restaurants from decades ago. El Ranchito, for example, or the family-run places in small West Texas towns. Just the basics. Bean dip, chili con queso, guacamole, nachos, a few salads for starters. Burritos, enchiladas, tacos, tamales, chile rellenos. Flautas. Chimichangas. Fajitas and a couple of grilled dishes. And combinations of the above. That's about it.
I started with some fresh, thin chips and thick salsa, then graduated up to chile con queso--orange, not white, and very light in texture. Then a three-way on the enchiladas. Chicken, cheese, beef, each with a different sauce. With beans and rice, this was a very large and completely full platter, and as attractive as it was delicious.
Finished with a flan big enough for two people. That Latin American variety of caramel custard is cooked much harder than, say, the cup custard at Galatoire's, making it even more filling and sweet. Haven't had one like this in some time.
The owner challenged me to reveal my secret identity. She would not allow me to pay, saying that a lot of people had come in as a result of hearing about it on my radio show. But all of those recommendations really came from her customers, calling in. This was my first time here. I covertly had to leave the cash on the counter while she wasn't looking, en route to the kitchen where she said her chef Jose wanted to meet me.
I can't sneak in anywhere anymore.
Pepe's Mexican Restaurant. Lacombe: 27718 Main. 985-882-2251.
It's over four years since a day was missed in the Dining Diary. To browse through all of the entries since 2008, go here.
