Thursday, November 8, 2012.
Thai Soup Helps A Cold.
The golden era of Thai cooking on the North Shore seems to be past its peak. Before Katrina, only two Thai restaurants operated in St. Tammany Parish. As of about a year ago, there were eight of them. More gratifying was the food itself, which rivaled all but the best South Shore restaurants (which are, in case you're wondering, La Thai Cuisine and the Basil Leaf.)
But changes in management in three previously superb Thai restaurants in Covington has dampened the prospects. The most tragic is Thai Thai, whose owner Ricky Seubsanh was taken out of circulation, the police alleging that he was involved in some nasty dealings after hours. The restaurant now has a big sign in front that says "Under New Management." Meanwhile, across the highway, Thai Spice is also being run by new folks. At least that's what the ad sales people tell me, after trying to sell them something.
Those were the two Thai restaurants I went to most often. Third on my list, down Causeway Boulevard, Thai Chili also seems to have undergone changes, although they don't come out and say so. But I don't recognize anyone there, and the cooking tastes and looks different to me.
I tried it again tonight. My cold was bad enough that I did the radio show from home, just to keep from grossing people out. A Coricidin brought it enough under control for me to want the healing effects of Thai soup.
The lady waiting on me was convinced that three-star pepper levels would not be to my liking. Thai menus use a code that runs from one star (mild) to three stars (very spicy), with an extra annex of four stars ("Thai hot," which they correctly believe can be eaten only by a Thai native). I'd say the soup she served me (tom kha ga, the coconut-milk chicken and lemongrass soup) registered at zero stars, or perhaps minus one. I told her that if she brought the prik king not made to my three-star request, I would sent it back. She shook her head, but agreed.
An underrated dish loaded with carrots, green beans, and bell peppers, with a musky taste I can't quite make out but like, the prik king had all the kick I was hoping for. It was also made with undercooked vegetables, which brought down its flavor a bit. Mary Ann said that she could actually hear the vegetables squeaking as I chewed them. But she didn't have anything to distract her. She says she doesn't like Thai food, although every time she's had it she enjoyed it. Tonight, she just sat there watching me eat. I don't know why shoe bothers. It's not something I get a kick out of. And we are still not communicating very well, since her head is still spinning with the implications of the presidential election, and that is a forbidden topic.
Good or just okay (which is what this meal was), Thai food strikes me as having the highest ratio of goodness to healthfulness of any cuisine on earth.
Thai Chili. Covington: 1102 N US 190. 985-809-0180.
