Tuesday, December 11, 2012.
Two Five-Star Restaurants At Once. The Dinner That Needs A Chill.
Today's radio show was what I had in mind when I hatched the round-table idea almost two years ago. (Has it really been that long?) Not only was it interesting, but provided another proof of my theory that only 500 people live in New Orleans.
But let's start with this unusual state of affairs. At the table were the management and chefs of two five-star restaurants. They have in common addresses on Common Street. Danny Millan from Le Foret brought his Chef Brandon. Allison Vines-Rushing brought her husband Slade Rushing. The couple co-owns and co-chefs MiLa.
All the above people had news. Danny is hosting a big fundraiser next Monday for a chef beset with the big C. And the Rushings have just put out a cookbook called Southern Comfort--not about the famous spirit, but literally about Southern-style comfort food. I saw a copy of it over the weekend. It's a great-looking piece of work, with low-key photography.
Flanking the Le Foret contingent was Chef Dominique Macquet with his five-year-old daughter Nadia, and Chef Chuck Subra from the J.W. Marriott hotel. Both chefs are part of the Monday fundraiser at Le Foret. Dominique has the added connection of being the headliner of a new restaurant planned to open next year on Magazine Street. The Le Foret people are the business partners there.
As for Chuck Subra, before he was the chef at La Cote Brasserie, he worked with Chef Rene Bajeux at Rene Bistrot. Which is now MiLa. Connect!
That left only David Smith, whose group of restaurants include Eat New Orleans (the oldest, opening very shortly after Katrina) Vacherie (the newest, a bistro in the St. Marie Hotel), Between The Bread, and Café At The Square. But we weren't fifteen minutes into the show when we realized that Café at the Square is the former Gerard's Restaurant. And that's where the Rushings, working in the same kitchen for Gerard Maras, met one another and fell in love.
The Rushings' eight-month-old daughter Ida Lou gurgled throughout the show. If she becomes a chef, then I will be able to say that her first appearance in the media was on my program.
I had some production work to do after the show, keeping me there until seven. I went down onto the windy, chilly Magazine Street, and made my way across Poydras Street to the flickering gas lanterns of the Bon Ton Café.
Another night like this in 1974, I also had to work late. I was two months into my three-year tenure as editor of New Orleans Magazine, working long hours. The street was deserted when I finally left, and the cold wind blew trash around. It was lonely and depressing.
But on my way to my car, I walked in front of the Bon Ton and saw those cheerful gas lamps. This is just what I need, body and soul, I thought. I pushed into the toasty (in both temperature and aroma) dining room.
I don't remember what I ate that night, but the memory of that dinner--thirty-eight years ago?--comes back every year at this time. If the weather, my mood, and my commitments mesh, I relive that evening. I am very good at reliving my memories.
I do remember tonight's dinner, thank God. I started with a Manhattan, followed by the Bon Ton's famous mock turtle soup. I was going to have a salad, but the waiter forgot to bring it. Debbie Pierce--whose husband Wayne owns the Bon Ton, and who works there full-time too--suggested that I have a half-and-half plate of oysters Alvin and crabmeat imperial. Which I did. The waiter almost got it right: crabmeat au gratin (which is the best in town, I'd say) was there instead of the imperial. A little thing, not enough to ruin my enjoyment of this night.
Details.
Bon Ton Cafe. CBD: 401 Magazine. 504-524-3386.
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