Tuesday, June 5, 2012.
I Just Keep Trying Hoshun.
Hoshun has been on my mind for a few weeks, and I finally made it there this evening. It's been about a year since the last time, and since then a number of radio salespeople have asked me whether I would do commercials for the place. I keep going back, hoping that I can turn the answer into a yes.
I had a feeling this might be the night. Hoshun was busier than I've ever seen it, with a young, agreeably noisy crowd filling the front rom. This relegated me to the dark tables near the bar, which could not be better hidden from view if they wanted to keep it a secret. However, the bartender had a hail fellow-well met personality, and when I asked him about a beer, he enthusiastically recommended Asahi Black. It's a lager, so not especially malty, but it did go well with everything I would eat.
Hoshun is primarily Chinese, but its menu is pan-Asian. They have a serious sushi bar, and the kitchen's menu offers Thai, Vietnamese, and even a little Indonesian food. Of this, the sushi and the Thai dishes have been the best.
So I started with a St. Charles Roll, made with tuna, salmon, spicy tuna, avocado, and a pungent wasabi mayonnaise. Its architecture was a little shaky, but the flavors were good and the fish fresh and elemental. Good start.
When the jolly waiter came back for the rest of the order, I took his advice about the house's special duck, with an order of pot stickers first. Then I told him, "Hear me well! I do not want any two dishes in this dinner to be on this table at the same time!" I may said that too sternly, and he looked a little like he'd been hit over the head with a Chinese fan. Then he smiled and gave me the thumbs up.
"Where are you from?" he asked. Unlike most Orleanians, I like being asked that. It means that I have not been recognized, and that my tourist-like looks, dress, and lack of local accent have been convincing.
The pot stickers were not the worst I've had, but not very good. The filling had the texture of overworked hamburger, and a dull flavor. The pasta was too firm. Pot stickers should and can be made much lighter than this, with more ingredients in the filling. I ate half of them and pushed it aside.
Now the duck, with its "special sauce." That's a term I wish would become extinct, in favor of a description of the stuff. This one was a brown sauce with purple highlights--I think plums were part of it. It was laid down on the plate in an unartful way, but it tasted good. Pumpkin seeds were scattered about, their flavor function hard to discern. The duck itself was much overcooked, apparently roasted first then wok-fried to order--a standard method in Chinese places. The large amount of sauce helped to moisten the meat enough to make it comfortably chewable. The flavors were okay, but the look and texture of the dish were unimpressive. After getting at all the easy-to-reach meat, I left the bones alone. Good thing I had a knife.
This is a beautiful restaurant, and the menu sounds delicious. The waiter-bartender was the most agreeable and helpful I've had in this place. (He indeed did not put two dishes down at the same time, as other servers I've had at Hoshun did.) But this makes four or five attempts to have a dinner I can recommend to others here. I'll keep trying.
Hoshun. Lee Circle Area: 1601 St Charles Ave. 504-302-9716.
It's over three years since a day was missed in the Dining Diary. To browse through all of the entries since 2008, go here.
