Tuesday, May 14, 2012.
A Great Show, For A Change. Bringing Soft-Shell Crabs To Brigtsen's.
It was just what I had in mind when I dreamed up the Round-Table radio show idea a couple of years ago. People from different parts of the food-o-sphere would come in and get a lively conversation started, with as many laughs as possible. That's just how it went today.
The funniest part of it was that John Besh--who is organizing the most expensive event in this year's New Orleans Wine and Food Experience, a well-deserved tribute to Leah Chase--was supposed to show up to promote the bash. Besh confirmed, cancelled, reconfirmed, re-cancelled, and repeated the cycle once more before he confirmed that he was cancelling. But he's a busy guy. And these days, I can't seem to get Mark Benfatti from N'Tini's on my show, let alone our city's current chef darling and inspiration.
On the other hand, Tory McPhail was there. The eleven-year exec chef at Commander's Palace found out a few days ago that the James Beard organization named him the best chef in America, Southern division. After Commander's also won the only Wine Spectator Grand Award in town a few months ago, it now looks as if all the things I've been saying about the place for thirty years are credible.
Tory is one of the most engaging and likeable chefs in the biz. He has a low-key style, but then he does something dramatic. Not long after Commander's reopened after K, I visited his kitchen and watched him stand on the opened door of one of his new ovens, to prove how well built it was.
Also in the room was Dr. James Moises, a local ER physician with a winery in Oregon. He is so active in the food and wine biz that I seem constantly to run into him. I think this is the fourth time he's been on the radio with me. Always nice to have him, because he always brings wine.
Danny Millan from Le Foret came along, too. He brought with him a couple of the wines he's serving at his Wine and Food Experience Vintner Dinner next week. They are from Provenance, which is to Napa wineries what the Court of Two Sisters is to New Orleans restaurants. Which is to say better than its reputation, and attractive to tourists.
Danny brought a man who wanted to identify himself as just "Mr. Richard." he is a soft-shell crab "shedder," as people who supply that delicacy are known. We covered the subject in greater depth than we ever have or will, while a box of eight live soft-shell crabs waved at us.
Finally, we were visited by Tracy Beninate, one of the members of the board of directors of the New Orleans Wine & Food Experience. No big issues to discuss there. I hear that NOW&FE has already set a record for tickets sold, and there's still a week to go.
I gave half of the soft-shells given to me by Mr. Richard to my producer Mindy, who said her mother loved to cook them. I kept the other four, even though there wasn't much chance we would eat them at home anytime soon. So I took them to dinner.
"In twenty-seven years, you are the first person to bring me soft-shell crabs through the front door," Frank Brigtsen said. Marna Brigtsen said she had a table available for me, and that I really ought to stay for dinner. How could I say no?
After the server informed me of an off-menu special of soft-shell crabs, I went after what I really felt like eating. Frank's shrimp remoulade knows no equal. It starts with a mound of guacamole in the center of the plate, topped with his coarse, Creole-mustard-heavy remoulade sauce. The shrimp were so big I had to cut them into two or three pieces. Radiating out from the center were several deviled eggs and low levees of corn and peppers.
Next came one each of the baked oysters Rockefeller and Leruth, served in aluminum shells that made the oysters stick a little bit to the bottom--but that was no deficiency. The sauces were marvelous. The one named for legendary chef and late friend Warren Leruth was enough like a Bienville that it could be called that--especially since no two restaurants have the same recipe for oysters Bienville.
Frank cooks the kinds of veal dishes that once were common in New Orleans restaurants, but are now seen only rarely. This one had a brown sauce with oysters and wild mushrooms. Just what I was hoping for, and very good with a glass of Pinot Noir.
Pina Colada bread pudding, from Frank's wide repertoire in that category. "This is one I'm not happy with yet, but I like the idea," he said. "I'm still trying to figure out how to bring the coconut in." I wasn't having any problems with it.
I had to ask about Charlie's Seafood. Frank said it was due to a difference between the landlord and him about a number of issues. Working through it and finally having to walk away was, he said, one of the most stressful times of his life. He is glad it's all over. And no, there will not be a rebirth of Charlie's under his ownership.
I don't eat here half often enough.
Brigtsen's. Riverbend: 723 Dante. 504-861-7610.
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