Today is the biggest day of the year for Leah Chase and her restaurant Dooky Chase. Holy Thursday is the day when she makes a gulf of gumbo z'herbes, and when hundreds of people show up to eat it.
The name is a contraction of "gumbo aux herbes." It's made with greens, and it's very different from any other kind of gumbo. The more different greens, the better the gumbo z'herbes. Tradition says you must have an odd number of greens, and that the number will equal the number of new friends you'll make in the coming year. Miss Leah makes hers with quite a bit of meat: brisket and chaurice (hot sausage). Other cooks affirm that there should be no meat in gumbo z'herbes; real purists say there shouldn't even be seafood.
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