Wednesday, August 10, 2011.
407 North.
A radio show from home, then out to dinner with the Marys. Mary Ann has been curious about 407 North, a new restaurant in an old location in downtown Covington. It's where the Louisiana Star wine store and Etoile formerly were, in a cool old building renovated fancifully by artist James Michaelopolis, the landlord.
Like its predecessor, 407 North (here again is the ill-advised use of a number instead of a name for the restaurant) has two very different environments for dining, both of which have large bars. The bigger of the two spaces also has a stage, used on most nights for live music. I have a feeling it's at least as much a club as a restaurant. On this unmusical night, the place wasn't very busy.
The menu sounded terrific, and even Mary Leigh dove into it with gusto. The outcomes of all those promises were less alluring. The best of the first courses landed in front of me: a big mug of herbal tomato bisque. It had a little cream, but not enough to make it rich. The herbs ran the show, and that suited me fine.
Arriving at the same time were boudin balls, big and crusty with bread crumbs and a white dipping sauce with a tang of horseradish. One of three things has happened. Either a) the flavor of boudin as I know it has been replaced by a new flavor; 2) I have lost my ability to pick up the flavors that make up the classic boudin profile or iii) almost nobody is making boudin that tastes like boudin anymore. These were fried meat and rice balls to me.
Hummus was on the menu, Mary Ann was at the table, so hummus was on the table. Not very good--weird texture--and the pita bread was truly awful, warmed by steaming or some other method that left it too moist and flaccid.
The girls split a Caesar salad and an order of ribs, which were alleged to have been imbued with beer. They were not very good, the Marys said. I also had ribs, sort of--a rack of lamb, accompanied by some very nice asparagus and assorted drizzlings of liquids and solids. This was not only quite good but beautifully arrayed on the plate. Somebody back there knows what he's doing, at least on some things. I have a feeling that we have come here too soon after the place opened.
Dessert was cheesecake. Gooey, too sweet for me. The check was $119, more than I figured on spending here--although the lamb was largely to blame for that.
407 North. Covington: 407 N Columbia St . 985-809-3131.
