Wednesday, July 14. La Thai Cuisine. It takes just as long for me to update a restaurant review as to write a new one. I not only edit, but add a lot more data. Lately, that includes almost the whole menu. One of my projects for this summer is to perform that work on every review from a year ago or older. This will slow down progress to another goal: to have 400 full, detailed, current reviews on the site. I have 379 as of today. I hope to have both projects finished by the end of the year.
Dinner at La Thai Cuisine, one of the restaurants whose review will not change much but needs updating. Their new Uptown location has been a tremendous success. As it was tonight. The restaurant was full, pushing me into the worst table in the house. It's in a bit of floor space too big to leave empty but too small for comfort. It jams up against a room divider, on the other side of which is a table that could not possibly be as close to mine without the divider. But what else is a restaurateur or customer to do? The alternative is to wait at the bar.
The table was in a dark spot. Nevertheless, my presence was discovered before the first course appeared. I was visited by both Diana and Merlin Chauvin, brother and sister, authentic Thai Cajuns. They are the second generation of the family that opened New Orleans' first Thai restaurant. (The Mai Tai on the West Bank, back in the 1980s.)
The first course illustrated perfectly what they're up to at La Thai. A bowl of Canadian mussels in a Thai green curry broth--but with a side order of French fries, like in the bistros. Two menu directions in one, and a brilliant match. I went through the two dozen mussels and far too many fries (who can resist?). I finished up the broth, opaque with coconut milk, with a spoon.
Merlin showed up with a delayed but welcome amuse-bouche: a seared scallop, cleft in twain, atop eggplant, drizzled with a sweet chili glaze. Well, now.
I could have quit right there, but needed material for this paragraph. The big deal dish at La Thai right now is (and get a load of it) a large crab cake, topped with a soft-shell crab, topped further with jumbo lump crabmeat. A layer of sauteed vegetables lines the plate, and the chili glaze performed the same function it did for the scallops. The waiter, a few radio callers, and Merlin himself (his name is on the dish) said this was not to be missed. I said, okay, but leave off the soft-shell. (I've had it here before.)
This crabby platter was still too big to finish comfortably, even after its allure had expanded my appetite. Classic Thai cuisine? No. But an exceptional coming together of the Thai flavor palette and the best local ingredients. That dish cinched a fourth star for La Thai.
For the second day in a row, somebody told me I never change. Diana Chauvin said it this time. She remains beautiful, and her star is rising. She won the seafood-cooking contest at NOWFE's Grand Tasting this year, and will represent the state in the national seafood competition. Mama must be proud.
La Thai Cuisine. Uptown: 4938 Prytania. 504-899-8886. Thai.
