Wednesday, March 2, 2011.
Madrid.
My dinner plan was to try the Crescent Pie and Sausage Company on Banks Street, but I was looking on the wrong side of the street and didn't see it. (It's not well signed.) Some other day, soon. It's been open long enough that I should have reviewed it, and the buzz being emitted by its fans is very strong.
I turned in the direction of Lakeview, with no particular place in mind. I passed Madrid, went two blocks more, and turned around after I realized Madrid had exactly the kind of food that appealed to my appetite.
As usual, it wasn't very busy. I sat where I did about a year ago, and had the same problem: it was cold outside, and the window (it's really a door) is not well weatherstripped. I stayed there, though, because that table has a bright light above it that allows me to take better food pictures and read, too.
I began with mussels, which here are prepared with a scattering of Spanish chorizo. From Spain, chorizo differs from Mexican chorizo in being fully cured, dense, and almost hard. (Mexican chorizo is a lot like Cajun hot sausage.) Onions, cilantro, and a little tomato finished a very good recipe.
The entree was lamb chops. Last time I was here, one of the regular customers made a big fuss over how good they were. He was right about that. The chops were marinated in something good, and cooked with olive oil and garlic. They were a shade undercooked for me, a problem I have everywhere. I prefer rare beef, but the flavors of lamb aren't quite there until medium. "Rosy" is the way I like them, with a blush of red in the center.
For dessert, I wound up with something I'd had before, but forgotten about. That's fine, because the idea of making a cheesecake with goat cheese is as successful as it is interesting. It doesn't look like a cheesecake, but like a pancake, covered with walnuts and a light honey syrup.
Juan Hernandez, the owner, cooked all of that. He had a server working, but he came to the table to take the measure of my hunger at the beginning and to talk at the end. He brought along Pedro Ximenez sherry, Oxford 1.970--a big, very dark, unctuous sherry of the kind few people know about, let alone drink. It was wonderful.
Juan also had some interesting news. He knows that that where he is is probably not the best location. Or even a good one--he has been unable to get a license to serve wine, which takes a lot away from a Spanish restaurant. But he's looking into taking over the former Taqueros on St. Charles Avenue at Melpomene. That would be a terrific spot. It's highly visible, good-looking, and has a parking lot.
I hope that happens. This restaurant is much too good for the sparse audience it's getting on the corner of Milne and Harrison.
Madrid. Lakeview: 300 Harrison Ave. 504-482-2757.
