Wednesday, May 16, 2012.
West Banking At Café Etienne.
All of a sudden, it was as if my radio station had left the air. Nobody was calling into the program, after a good first hour. When a caller did appear, he had a theory. "Drew Brees is on WWL talking about why he doesn't have a contract yet." I looked into the WWL studio, two panes of glass from mine. I saw both Chris Claus and Diane Newman--top station management--sitting in there and listening gravely. Drew said there was a lack of communication. I don't understand.
Dinner tonight was my second in recent history at Café Etienne, a little cottage-turned-bistro in Old Gretna. I went there two weeks ago and found it more than satisfying. Once I found it at all. Even though I know exactly where it is, I can't seem to drive directly to the place.
Owner Todd Wicker wears those Rat Pack-reminiscent mini-fedoras I see on the heads of a lot of hip young guys lately. (Maybe I need one of these for my Sinatra moods.) Todd also runs the bar. He asked whether I wanted a Manhattan like last time. Yes, please, but not like last time--not on the rocks. Sometimes I think I get as much of a thrill from drinking a cocktail out of a martini glass--preferably with something spherical in the bottom--as I do from the drink itself.
Here came another, almost laughably homely amuse-bouche: a piece of focaccia with a very spicy, crunchy little pile of diced vegetables. But it's just a neighborhood café, and it tasted good, so that works.
A lightly creamy, slightly sweet shrimp bisque was the soup du jour. About a half-dozen whole, peeled shrimp were in there. I skipped the free salad in favor of an insalata Caprese. Good news: it had been made to order, instead of hours ahead. Less-good news: the plate was warm, and this warmed the fresh mozzarella and even the tomatoes a little. I tuned that out and enjoyed.
Chicken piccata for an entree. It was unusual in having no coating of any kind, although the lemon-butter-caper sauce was good enough. Nice medley of very fresh vegetables same on the side, but no pasta. But pasta is the last thing I need.
For dessert, the last piece of a chocolate-coconut cake the owner's wife made for Mother's Day. It was even better than the non-chocolate version. And better than the bread pudding.
Although the dining room was nearly full when I arrived, it had emptied completely save for me by the time darkness fell. I was reading a magazine. Todd entered the room and dimmed the lights. Every restaurant does this, and I can't figure out why. Seems like when it gets dark outside, the lights ought to be turned up, not down.
I pulled out the light I use to take photos and continued reading. For the first time in recorded history, a manager picked up the cue and turned the lights back up. "You're the only one in here, after all," Todd said. "Hope that helps." It did. And thank you!
The magazine was The New Yorker, and the article was about Tony Bennett and Lady Gaga making a record together. Halfway through the article, who should step in but Joe Segreto! He's the owner of Eleven 79, over on Annunciation Street. Joe kept appearing in the prose for two more pages. I know he's a close personal friend of Tony Bennett, but it was still a surprise to run into a local guy in a national magazine. I keep telling Joe that he must write his autobiography.
Speaking of Eleven 79, the fire that shut the place down a few weeks ago did not daunt Joe for long. The restaurant is back open again for lunch and dinner.
Cafe Etienne. Gretna: 423 10th Street. 504-309-4072.
Eleven 79. Warehouse District: 1179 Annunciation. 504-569-0001.
