Wednesday, May 5. Jackson Returns With New Menu. Jackson is back open. It's an oddly-configured bistro on Magazine Street, in the last block uptown before it becomes a two-way street. A number of restaurants have come and gone in this space during the last decade. The original Jackson--run by some departees from Brennan's--was very good, but just disappeared one day. The owner said they just weren't making enough money. I think this may be because it was the most gentrified establishment on the block. The Lower Garden District is much busier and more interesting with each new year, as those marvelous old buildings (many of which predate the Civil War) are renovated.
The space in use this night was downstairs, where I have rarely dined in the past iterations. (A sort of mezzanine on the second floor was the typical main dining area.) The table gave me a clear view of the kitchen, which I don't mind--especially not when I lack a dining partner.
The new Jackson is owned by different people, with a different chef cooking a different menu. It was not the menu I expected to see, dominated as it was by hamburgers and other very casual eats. On the other hand, the main menu was accompanied by a list of much more ambitious specials, enough that it seemed to have come from a different restaurant.
But interesting enough. I began with Jackson's answer to oysters a la Drago, grilled on the shells with butter and parmesan cheese, and topped with a shrimp. That sounded good to me, but it wasn't a great idea. Oysters and shrimp, when both are in their nearly-native states with little in the way of sauce or broth or pasta to bring them together, clash with one another. I wound up eating all the shrimp, then all the oysters. Not a terrible fate, but. . . well, I think they ought to come up with a new approach.
The waitress--who was charming and helpful--thought my idea of following the oysters with the mussels was sane. I wasn't sure, so I threw a salad in between. It reminded me of the famous one at the Marigny Brasserie, made with spinach, strawberries, blue cheese, pecans, and what looked like cracklings, with a balsamic vinaigrette. Quite good.
The mussels looked perfect. They were served amply and cooked just right, plump and juicy and fresh. But I had an issue with the sauce. It was made in the classic way with the juices of the muss les, savory vegetables, and white wine. But the concoction needs to be brought to a good boil and left there for a minute or so, to burn off most of the alcohol from the wine. Alcohol is not a good flavor in non-sweet dishes, coming across as bitter. Not bad enough to send back, but a bit of a disappointment.
I will chalk this up to having come too soon, and will return for the hamburger, which a number of people tell me is excellent.
Jackson. Garden District: 1910 Magazine. 504-522-5766.
