Wednesday, November 28, 2012.
R'evolution Puts On A Party.
Mary Ann gets as many invitations to press events as I do these days. Today's fete was across the street from last night's. The Royal Sonesta Hotel was holding its annual Lighting of the Balconies ceremony, ushering in the Christmas season. It was followed by a big party catered by both the hotel's regular kitchen and that of R'evolution. The crowd filled the main ballroom on the second floor, leaving no room for either sitting or sanding while sampling the food.
Which was very good, actually. Seared, thinly-sliced venison loin. Fish afloat on a lake of oyster-artichoke soup. A mousse of foie gras. Braised short ribs (MA's favorite.) A gumbo z'herbes that had the flavor of seafood gumbo, and very good at that. Whole turkeys and hams being cut up to order. An enormous table of charcuterie, cheese, pates and salads. A large table of desserts, including a great version of custard with a mango gelee in a shot glass. And that was less than a quarter of what was there. All those eats and the number of people we socialized with at length kept us there longer than I thought.
The Royal Sonesta has raised its profile quite a lot during the past few years. Its location, on the whole 300 block of Bourbon Street, could hardly be better. But except for Begue's Sunday brunch (which officially became extinct the day after Thanksgiving), their restaurants mostly served visitors. Now, with R'evolution and some other programs, they seem to be going after more local business. It's a handsome hotel--especially with its Christmas decorations lining its hallway.
Chefs John Folse and Rick Tramonto--the geniuses behind R'evolution--were in the house. I spoke with Folse for a few minutes, at the end of which he said that he took the criticisms that appeared in this journal a couple of weeks ago as constructive. But I could see that he was at least a little miffed. I said hello to Tramonto, too, but I don't think he connected me with the commentary. Okay with me. I don't write for restaurant owners, but for restaurant customers.
Our plan was to stay at the party a little while, then to have dinner at R'evolution. But the buffet did us in, as they have a way of doing.
To browse through all of the Dining Diaries since 2008, go here.
