On the charming old commercial strip of Covington, this first full-fledged branch of the city's most famous oyster bar fits right in. It has the same crusty old hangout environment that the original has. The concrete floors and dark walls are lit up by an oversufficiency of neon signs. The menu continues to grow at the Acme, which started as an oyster bar with poor boy sandwiches and not much else. Now they offer a much more extensive list of platters and appetizers. All of it that I've tried was good enough, but won't make any top-ten lists. This is still welcome, because the North Shore has a serious dearth of decent fried seafood places. And that's what the Acme is: decent.