The potential profitability of a top-class steakhouse explains why there have been so many new ones in the past couple of decades. Although there have been moments when the maximum was exceeded (anyone remember Hyde Park Grill?), the allure of a good steak is so universal that it's an easy sell. And the tickets so high that a restaurateur doesn't have to keep the room full all the time to make the nut.
My office is a block from the Chophouse. I sure wish Jerry had opened a French bistro or a lusty, garlic-fragrant Italian trattoria instead of just another steakhouse, so I could take advantage of it more often. But then, there are all those law offices around there.
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Sirloin strip, Pittsburgh style, Chophouse.[/caption]
The place looks good, the staff is welcoming, and the steaks' pedigrees are all convincing. Right there, the Chophouse can count on getting enough customers from the increasingly visitor-heavy Central Business District. With prices in a league with the high-end steakhouses here, the business model is complete. Whether it adds anything to the market for local customers is a question, what with Ruth's Chris, Desi Vega's and Dickie Brennan's Steakhouse all within a few blocks.
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Redfish amandine.[/caption]
Jerry Greenbaum owns a small chain of steakhouses and other restaurants in the Southeast, centered in Atlanta. He came here years ago to attend Tulane, and promised himself he'd come back, so much did he like New Orleans. In 2011 he did, opening the Chophouse in the historic, brick-walled space adjacent to the old Board of Trade and the St. James Hotel. Among the many previous restaurants at this address were the Bon Ton, Cafe Brulot, Liborio, and (most recently) Cuvee.
Cuvee wrought an exquisite remodeling here in 2000, and Chophouse inherited it. Tall ceilings, brick walls with handsome arches, and big windows give it a spaciousness that belies the small size of the place. The bar is set apart beyond an arch, and employs a pianist-singer with a very broad repertoire and an amp set a little too loud. The servers are efficient and polite as far as their corporate-style training goes.
The steak is excellent; very little else is. Chophouse opens on many holidays and is also there before Saints home games. This is the only restaurant in town that regularly serves Florida stone crab claws, if you're looking for that very expensive delicacy.
| Attitude | 2 |
|---|---|
| Environment | 2 |
| Hipness | 0 |
| Local Color | 2 |
| Service | 1 |
| Value | 0 |
| Wine | 1 |
