Grand Isle

Restaurant Review

Anecdotes & Analysis

Harrah's Casino at the feet of both Canal and Poydras Streets is the biggest but not the only part of the Harrah's juggernaut. It owns several hotels, between which are quite a few would-be major restaurants. Ruth's Chris Steak House is the most prominent of these. Gordon Biersch Brewery is probably the busiest. Manning's is the worst. And Grand Isle is the best. The environment appeals to natives with memories of trips deep down into bayou country as well as to out-of-towners who find the place somehow convincing. The seafood-dominant menu is not only deftly rendered but wide in its range of main ingredients. I encounter many more species of finfish here than almost any other restaurant. Meatier grub, with dark-roux sauces and long-cooked stews, also get ordered often enough.

Why It's Essential

The original idea here was to offer the feeling of being in the Louisiana wetlands, and to cook what one might catch there. Specifically, you are reminded of the fishing camp in the real town of Grand Isle--one of the several ends of the earth on the Louisiana Gulf Coast. That have evolved over the years into a menu much like you'd find in a good, funky New Orleans neighborhood place, but served in a squeaky-clean, hotel-restaurant kind of way. [caption id="attachment_14788" align="alignnone" width="400"] Oysters Fouchon. [/caption]

Backstory

Grand Isle opened in the back end of Harrah's Hotel in 2004, with Chef Joel Dondis as the original tastemaker. It opened with a strong seafood offering--particularly in the oyster and chilled seafood departments--and a bunch of overly inventive country-style dishes. Mark Falgoust took over the kitchen in 2008, and after an initial dip, the cooking has steadily steadily improved, with familiar local classics replacing the early contrived dishes. [caption id="attachment_14790" align="alignnone" width="400"] Fisherman's Stew.[/caption]

Dining Room

If you've ever been to the likes of Grand Isle (the town), you'll recall some elements of the decor here. But really the place is too slick and surrounded by too many tall buildings for that feeling to take hold. That matter past, it's a pleasant dining room with cypress panels and, wood floors, and tile, surmounted with historic photos of the real Gulf Coast.

For Best Results

The simpler the dish (starting with raw oysters and boiled shrimp), the better it will be. The saucier fish dishes sometimes are overly complex. But a fish like sheepshead a la meuniere is near the top of the list for that underrated fish. The meat dishes are not bad, but are there mostly for those who don't eat seafood.