Impastato's

Restaurant Review

Anecdotes & Analysis

One of the most important goals a restaurant must have is a good source of first-class raw materials. Even in the realm of seafood--which you'd think should be very abundant in our part of the world, but isn't--the person who buys food for a restaurant kitchen must either 1) pay top dollar; b) know somebody well-connected to the commercial fishermen; or iii) spend a lot of time on the phone tracking the every-changing seafood markets. Joe Impastato and his brother Sal do all three of those things. At Impastato's, for example, I often find soft-shell crabs when nobody else has them. Live soft-shells, at that. Can't fake that. [caption id="attachment_43066" align="alignnone" width="480"] Shrimp Capri (or remoulade, if you prefer).[/caption]

Why It's Essential

Impastato's is the definitive restaurant for New Orleans-Sicilian cooking. A strong base of enthusiastic regular customers comes for the homemade pasta prepared tableside, the buttery seafood dishes, and the standard red-sauce range. Dining here is an exceptional value, particularly when it involves the five-course dinners available for prices in the mid-$30s all night every night. [caption id="attachment_35020" align="alignnone" width="480"] Oysters Heebe (Italian style)[/caption]

Backstory

[caption id="attachment_34291" align="alignleft" width="133"] Joe Impastato.[/caption]

BACKSTORY Joe Impastato is one of two Sicilian-born brothers (the other operates Sal & Judy's on the North Shore) who got a feel for the New Orleans palate from Jimmy Moran at the old La Louisiane. The brothers opened their own restaurants in 1978. Impastato's took over an existing restaurant called Joe Soab's, at a time when a major commercial boom was underway in the area. Joe let it be known that Saints players were always welcome as his guests, and they started hanging out there.

Dining Room

Two rooms: a busy, convivial main room with walls and ceilings covered with stained glass. And a smaller room off the bar, with a staggering collection of first-class sports memorabilia (i.e., a helmet from every NFL team, signed by its biggest stars). The bar also features the Sinatra-style singing of Roy Picou every night. The service staff has been here a long time and does its job well, especially if you're a regular.

For Best Results

Ask the waiter what kind of fish is available; there's usually more than what you're initially told. If the only fish they have is tilapia, get the soft-shell crab or veal version of the same dish. Make reservations even for weeknights. Although a five-course dinner seems excessive, get it anyway. Nothing is held back in terms of quality or portion size.