It's a strange world we live in. Two of the hottest restaurant categories right now are chains with ordinary food but extravagantly expensive premises, and locally-owned eateries with unique cooking in minimal circumstances. Both types are packed all the time. This week and next I present good examples of each.
Something about this tiny, quirky cafe makes many fast friends. Most nights the place is fully engaged by people who are clearly enthralled to be there. They are quick to tell you how different--and, it's understoood, how superior--the food is here from that of other Italian restaurants. However, unless you have limited your Italian dining to Venezia or Tony Angello's, you will not find a lot of new ground broken here.
Samantha Castagnetti, native of Verona, opened the Italian Barrel during the post-Katrina recovery. The name and the design suggested a wine shop or deli as much as it did a restaurant. All this and the location in the restaurant row near the Old U.S. Mint charmed enough people to get the word out.
The building is old even by French Quarter standards. While it's in good repair, it has some problems. On a cold night, it's drafty. The dining room layout is tight. Tables have the smallest zone of privacy, and those eating at the bar will not find it easy. But for some customers, all this adds to the charm. The service staff is friendly and forthcoming with good advice on ordering.
Reservations are essential. The appetizers--notably the cured meat and cheese plates, are designed to serve at least two people. Splitting an order of pasta as a starter is a good idea, but be sure they know you're doing this, or you'll wind up with two hot courses in front of you.
| Attitude | 1 |
|---|---|
| Environment | 1 |
| Hipness | 2 |
| Local Color | 3 |
| Service | 2 |
| Value | 0 |
| Wine | 1 |
