La Boca

Restaurant Review

Anecdotes & Analysis

Steakhouses have a culture all their own, different from those of other kinds of restaurants. A masculinity, of course. An excitement generated by the long-running American imperative that one not only eats beef, but plenty of it, at prices one wouldn't accent from any other kind of restaurant. What you don't find: anything challenging. Steakhouses are the most elementary of upscale restaurants. La Boca had the guts to break away from that last rule. Although one can get a filet or a ribeye, fries or mashed potatoes, such an order misses the point of the place. This is genuinely different steak house, and not just for the sake of being different. Inspired by the steakhouses of Argentina--where they eat more beef than we do--the style of the place is unique.

Why It's Essential

Unusual cuts of excellent beef coax real fire out of the grill, searing the outside and making the inside near to bursting with juices. The sauces are not what you're used to, either, with many references to the Hispanic world. Chimichurri, for example, was made to detonate beef flavors. (It's a slurry of chopped herbs in olive oil, a sort of South American pesto.)

Backstory

Chef Adolfo Garcia and Nick Bazan, after they had the now-extinct seafood restaurant RioMar going, turned to the beef cookery of the Spanish-speakign world. Nick is himself from Argentina, and installed Argentine steakhouse culture. The restaurant opened in 2006, taking over the space formerly that of Taqueria Corona. In 2014, it moved to the former A Mano, another Adolfo property.

Dining Room

A large bar grabs the visual focus, but doesn't take over. The tall ceilings and many windows lend expansiveness, even though the restaurant seats only about 100. The servers are well versed in the food and wine--notably Orestes Rodriguez, one of the best service guys in town. (He was the long-time maitre d' at La Riviera.). Speaking of. . .the cellar here boasts the most extensive collection of Argentine and Spanish wines around. Lots of Malbec.

For Best Results

Make a reservation. The restaurant books out almost every day. Try a cut of beef you've never had before. Get the "gaucho plate" as an appetizer for the table.