La Provence
Anecdotes & Analysis
The arrival of the first convincing winter weather inspires a change in dining habits. Some restaurants turn cold weather into an asset--usually through the agency of fireplaces, which are not much seen in these parts. The best fireplace-intensive restaurant in the area is La Provence. Its location also adds to the nostalgic sting of the chill. Surrounded by pine trees way out on the lightly-traveled US 190. The only thing missing is a herd of reindeer and a jolly fat man dressed in white fur. (Where does he get albino nutria, I wonder.)
Backstory
Chris Kerageorgiou came to New Orleans in the 1960s after cooking around the world. After years as maitre d' at the Royal Orleans Hotel, he opened his own place in 1972 the woods near Lacombe. It seemed like a crazy plan--the North Shore population of gourmets was minuscule, and crossing the Causeway to get there and back was daunting. But his cooking was so distinctive that La Provence drew enough avid eaters to succeed. Right after Katrina, Chris sold the restaurant to his former sous chef John Besh, the new ruling chef superstar around town at the time. Besh brought in a series of excellent chefs who cooked brilliantly, but who didn't understand that the regulars wanted them to be Chris (who died not long after selling the restaurant). In 2009, Besh found Chef Erick Loos. Despite never having met Chris, Erick found his groove.
Dining Room
John Besh renovated La Provence soon after taking over in 2006. He added a comfortable bar and opened interior walls to add spaciousness. The large private dining room has a distinctly Provencal style, and the whole place has a rustic charm. Fireplaces in the center of the main room and in the bar are usually burning unless it would be crazy to do so. The service staff is on the young side and excited about the kitchen's work. In contrast is Joyce Bates, a presence in the dining room for over three decades. She runs the bar nowadays, but regulars love her most for the personalized poems she writes and passes out to customers.
Why It's Essential
The last time this column turned its attention to La Provence was in 2008, during the regime of the third chef hired by owner John Besh. That was Rene Bajeux, who seemed the perfect person to run the rustic French restaurant. He wasn't. Not until Erick Loos came in that the combination clicked. Now even the longtime customers of the restaurant are done with their griping about how founding chef Chris Kerageorgiou would have done things if he were still alive. Erick's food is not only exciting and unique, but also solidly in the spirit of Chris's cooking. Every time I go there, I find myself picturing Chris smiling down on this young chef's work with great satisfaction.
Why It's Good
The name of the restaurant advertises its culinary target: the food of Mediterranean France. Those flavors have always meshed well with the New Orleans palate, so much do we have in common with the people along there. However, this is no catalog of the familiar dishes from Marseilles to Monte Carlo. No bouillabaisse (not right now, anyway). Instead, those dishes are used as creative springboards. Also part of the mix are lots of locally-raised foodstuffs, much of which comes from the restaurant's own farms. (They raise pigs, chickens, herbs and vegetables.)
Most Interesting Dishes
Butter lettuce salad, herbes de jardin dressing Salad of fall chicories, pickled pears, grapes, spiced walnuts, blue cheese, honey vinaigrette »Roast beet & crabmeat salad, mirliton, horseradish »»Oysters "Ooh La-La" (crab fat butter crust, saffron, chili flakes) »Crab bisque Sweet potato ravioli »»Chef Chris's quail gumbo Creamy pumpkin soup, pumpernickel croutons, pumpkin seeds <em><strong>Entrees</strong></em> »Crispy Gulf drumfish, lump crabmeat, satsumas, fennel, toasted almonds, brown butter hollandaise Grilled local tuna, roast carrots, turnips, beluga lentils, cilantro parsley pesto »Pan-roasted pompano, sauteed corn, heirloom squash, wild mushrooms, corn froth »Organic chicken, honey parsnip puree, Brussels sprout leaves, hedgehog mushrooms, red wine chicken jus »Roast rack of lamb, charred eggplant, tomato, olive tapenade, artichokes Filet of beef tenderloin, porcini mushrooms, marrow Slow roast lacquered duckling, roast sunchokes, figs, toasted hazelnuts »Mangalitsa pork, celery root puree, pickled apples, grilled endive <em><strong>Dessert menu</strong></em> Warm spice cake, honey semifreddo, sour cherries, candied almonds »Apple & caramel tartine, cinnamon streusel, creme fraiche, salted caramel Dark chocolate clafoutis, candied hazelnuts, brown butter ice cream Praline monkey bread, cinnamon, brown sugar ice cream House made sorbets and ice creams »Brown butter pear tart, ginger ice cream, spiced mascarpone
Deficiencies
The menu is shorter than you might expect. A couple of dishes on it seem to be made for those without an adventuresome palate. On very busy days, the dining room and the kitchen have been known to fall behind.
For Best Results
At the bottom of the menu every day is a changing, three-course, country-style French dinner for $28. This is not merely a bargain, but a delightfully rustic repast. Try to keep from eating too much of the complimentary house pate before the real food comes. The best time to come here is late Sunday afternoon and early evening.
Bonus Ratings
1
Attitude
3
Environment
1
Hipness
3
Local Color
1
Service
1
Value
2
Wine
Holiday Ratings
0
Thanksgiving
3
New Year's Eve