The arrival of the first convincing winter weather inspires a change in dining habits. Some restaurants turn cold weather into an asset--usually through the agency of fireplaces, which are not much seen in these parts. The best fireplace-intensive restaurant in the area is La Provence. Its location also adds to the nostalgic sting of the chill. Surrounded by pine trees way out on the lightly-traveled US 190. The only thing missing is a herd of reindeer and a jolly fat man dressed in white fur. (Where does he get albino nutria, I wonder.)
The last time this column turned its attention to La Provence was in 2008, during the regime of the third chef hired by owner John Besh. That was Rene Bajeux, who seemed the perfect person to run the rustic French restaurant. He wasn't. Not until Erick Loos came in that the combination clicked. Now even the longtime customers of the restaurant are done with their griping about how founding chef Chris Kerageorgiou would have done things if he were still alive. Erick's food is not only exciting and unique, but also solidly in the spirit of Chris's cooking. Every time I go there, I find myself picturing Chris smiling down on this young chef's work with great satisfaction.
Chris Kerageorgiou came to New Orleans in the 1960s after cooking around the world. After years as maitre d' at the Royal Orleans Hotel, he opened his own place in 1972 the woods near Lacombe. It seemed like a crazy plan--the North Shore population of gourmets was minuscule, and crossing the Causeway to get there and back was daunting. But his cooking was so distinctive that La Provence drew enough avid eaters to succeed. Right after Katrina, Chris sold the restaurant to his former sous chef John Besh, the new ruling chef superstar around town at the time. Besh brought in a series of excellent chefs who cooked brilliantly, but who didn't understand that the regulars wanted them to be Chris (who died not long after selling the restaurant). In 2009, Besh found Chef Erick Loos. Despite never having met Chris, Erick found his groove.
John Besh renovated La Provence soon after taking over in 2006. He added a comfortable bar and opened interior walls to add spaciousness. The large private dining room has a distinctly Provencal style, and the whole place has a rustic charm. Fireplaces in the center of the main room and in the bar are usually burning unless it would be crazy to do so. The service staff is on the young side and excited about the kitchen's work. In contrast is Joyce Bates, a presence in the dining room for over three decades. She runs the bar nowadays, but regulars love her most for the personalized poems she writes and passes out to customers.
At the bottom of the menu every day is a changing, three-course, country-style French dinner for $28. This is not merely a bargain, but a delightfully rustic repast. Try to keep from eating too much of the complimentary house pate before the real food comes. The best time to come here is late Sunday afternoon and early evening.
| Attitude | 1 |
|---|---|
| Environment | 3 |
| Hipness | 1 |
| Local Color | 3 |
| Service | 1 |
| Value | 1 |
| Wine | 2 |
