Orleanians are aware of the plantations interspersed with the chemical factories up and down the river. But since the demise of the great restaurants of Elmwood Plantation and Tchoupitoulas Plantation, we don't think about such historic venues for dining. Until the day when a visiting friend or business colleague comes to town. In which an interest in visiting a plantation home is almost universal. The revival of Houmas House during the past decade has been a good thing for all the plantations between here and Baton Rouge. The food is better everywhere.
Dining in an antebellum plantation has tremendous appeal both to locals and visitors. Until Kevin Kelly bought and re-imagined Houmas House, you went to a plantation more for the atmosphere than for the food. Latil's Landing, the best of the three restaurants on the property, is in a league with the best traditional restaurants in Southeast Louisiana. It's worth the trip even when you're not showing guests around.
The restaurant is in the oldest part of the house, built in the 1770s. The rest of the premises are a mix of historic buildings and new ones built according to records of lost structures on the plantation. Kelly has planted gardens of stunning lushness, particularly this time of year. The plantation is still surrounded by vast acreage of sugar cane. Tours of the house go on constantly, telling a classic story of the antebellum river lifestyle.
The dining room's antiquity is clear. Windows give a second-story view of the grounds outside. Sometimes they also serve in the main house's grand dining parlor. Service is simple but good. Wines are stored in the original cistern of the house, an outbuilding just outside the dining room. A new addition is the home of Sunday brunch, which is one of the strongest draws here.
The best way to eat here is to get the chef's tasting menu. It typically runs six courses, changing with the seasons, at a reasonable price. The best time to dine is Sunday afternoon, when they open at two and keep going. That allows time for a tour. The
| Attitude | 1 |
|---|---|
| Environment | 2 |
| Hipness | 2 |
| Local Color | 3 |
| Service | 1 |
| Value | 2 |
| Wine | 2 |
