Eat & Drink

Liuzza's By The Track

1518 N Lopez St, New Orleans, LA 70119, USA 70119

Restaurant Review

Anecdotes & Analysis

This is the less-well-known of the two Liuzza's. And the better one, too--of only because the kitchen is more ambitious. They have the standard lineup of poor boy sandwiches and platters, but the chef is capable of producing some excellent specials--and he does. All of this is served in the circumstances of a neighborhood hangout, with prices to match.

Why It's Essential

Since the demise of Uglesich's, this is the dumpiest good restaurant in town--a datum that attracts the many diners who believe a neighborhood joint must be grubby to be good. Although that is clearly false, the eating here really is fine. All the corner cafe standards, poor boys to beans to gumbo, with a few upscale surprises.

Backstory

There have long been two good neighborhood cafes called Liuzza's, both of them in Mid-City. Each has had a series of owners. (Too long in the past for it to matter, they were the same). For reasons hard to understand, this Liuzza's has always had the better food and the lesser creature comforts.

Dining Room

It's a bar, really, and has been for most of the past fifty years. It proximity (rock-throwing distance) from the back gate of the Fair Grounds Race Course made it a hangout for horsemen, including the major characters in that crowd. It's still easy to picture them there. The tables are jammed in any way they'll fit, and not many fit well. Everything is battered and worn out. All of which the regular customers love.

For Best Results

If you've never been before, check the map. The restaurant is only a block from Esplanade, but the streets around there don't all run parallel and you can get turned around. Don't bother dressing down if you're coming from work. There's always somebody here wearing a tie. Don't even think of coming here during Jazz Festival.

Bonus Information

Attitude 1
Environment 0
Hipness 2
Local Color 3
Service 0
Value 3
Wine 0