Nathan's is one of the very few white-tablecloth restaurants in Slidell, which given its size, affluence, and distance from New Orleans ought to have far more of them. The restaurant's well-hidden location is just offbeat enough to make Slidellians feel that it's homey.
A Creole bistro, a shade upscale, Nathan's is defined to a large extent by its location: a second-story aerie overlooking Bayou Bonfouca. The menu is dominated by seafood, and has enough original, ambitious dishes to attract adventuresome diners. At the same time, most of the menu is pretty down-to-earth, making it appropriate for family lunches and dinners too. Despite the chef's history at Galatoire's, his cooking shows only a little influence from that restaurant's style.
Nathan's is the work of chef-owner Ross Eirich, who for a few years before Katrina was the executive chef at Galatoire's. He's a thoroughly local food guy, the son of the owner of the Cypress Cove Marina Grill down in Plaquemines Parish, and a graduate of Delgado's Culinary Arts Program. He opened Nathan's in 2008. The restaurant is named for Ross's oldest son.
The restaurant is on high stilts right next to the Slidell Marina on Bayou Bonfouca, the channel leading to Lake Pontchartrain. Large windows take full advantage of that view. A gallery along the bayou side of the restaurant holds tables for outdoor dining or cocktailing. The dining room staff delivers good but very basic service. The maitre d' is a good singer, and sometimes breaks out into an operatic tune.
For most menus like this, my advice would usually be to stay with the simple dishes. Here, it's the exact opposite. Chef Ross is easily capable of cooking complex dishes impressively.
| Attitude | 1 |
|---|---|
| Environment | 1 |
| Hipness | 1 |
| Local Color | 3 |
| Service | 1 |
| Value | 1 |
| Wine | 1 |
